About Plumeria Seeds and Seedlings

Plumeria Seeds is a comprehensive guide that provides valuable information on growing plumeria seeds from germination to blooming. There are three main reasons for growing plumeria seeds.

1) For rootstock to use for grafting
2) to produce new cultivars
3) just for the fun of it

“I have been growing plumeria from seeds for 15 years in Texas and the past 10x years in Florida. It is a very enjoyable and relaxing experience for me. The excitement, anticipation, and feeling of accomplishment are some rewards, but the best reward is the feeling I get when a seedling blooms for the first time, especially when it is an exceptional flower. I encourage everyone to give it a try.”

This website shares my experiences and preferred methods to help others grow plumeria from seed to bloom while providing a logical understanding of the method.

I will share information about pollination, seedpods, germination, and the initial transplanting process on this website.

Various effective methods are used globally for growing plumeria from seed, which can be adapted to suit the grower’s environment and growing conditions. It is important to take into account your specific environment and growing conditions. Not covering specific growing methods doesn’t necessarily mean they are bad. What specific methods for growing plumeria seeds are recommended by the author?

How long does it typically take for a plumeria seedling to bloom?

If you plan to grow plumeria from seeds, selecting ones that match your ultimate goals is crucial. You may also want to try out some new varieties, but don’t keep changing year after year. If available, it’s essential to gather information about the seeds’ lineage, including their parents and grandparents.

I have been keeping detailed records of the ongoing 2018 projects in Plumeria Seeds and detailed photos. Since 2014, I have learned to keep more detailed records every year. As time permits, I will also provide information about previous years. Depending on the required rootstock, I usually plant between 2 and 5 thousand seeds yearly. Around 1000 of these seeds are planted to grow new cultivars and for experimentation. It takes a lot of care and space to grow a seedling. You may have to keep seedlings for several years before deciding if they are worth keeping. Therefore, it’s essential to consider how many seedlings you can take care of over the years.

The projects in 2018 include seed selection, viability testing, seed preparation, planting, fertilizing, transplanting, watering, and soil management, among other things, until the plants bloom. One project focuses on parent selection for 2019 seed projects.

“I enjoy trying out various products and methods to find what works best for me in South Florida’s Zone 10b. My successes and failures have given me valuable insights, and I hope to share this useful information with you through this site. Learn from my experiences, both good and bad, and discover what works for you.”

Note: Each plumeria is a seedling of its parents and referred to as such until it blooms on Plumeria Seeds.

To give you an idea of what my plans are, check out…A guide to help grow plumeria seeds and visit Florida Colors Nursery for products I use to grow my seedlings.

For more detailed information on caring for all plumeria, visit the Ultimate Plumeria Care Guide.

A Guide for Growing Plumeria From Seed

Posted on January 20, 2018September 24, 2020 by texn

This guide shares the basic methods I use for growing plumeria from seed, caring for seedlings, and the products I use. I hope this guide helps you with your seed goals for the year.

There are many proven methods to growing plumeria from seed and you should examine to see if any could help you develop a method that works for you. This is only a guide and should be adjusted to your seed growing environment.

When I have a batch of seeds, I examine what I did in the past and determine if I can make any improvement. The following is my detailed plan for growing plumeria from seed in 2018. This plan covers from germination until they first produce blooms.

Please keep in mind your growing environment and the differences from South Florida Zone 10B. The start of your plan should correspond to when you are past the threat of a frost or freeze. You should also make plans to protect your plumeria from cold weather, just in case you have a late freeze or frost.

My goal is to know what, when, and why, so I can improve my method every year or even with each batch. Documenting all adjustments as you go will allow you to look back and better determine where you can make improvements.

Why I grow seedlings?
          1. To grow a new and exciting cultivars
          2. To grow rootstock for grafting
          3. But most of all to see that one-of-a-kind flower for the first time.

Using the methods and products below; I have been able to get about 10% of my seedlings to bloom in less than 12 months and about 60% to bloom in 18 to 24 months. The majority of the remainder bloom from 24 to 36 months. (Some do still take 3 years and even longer.)

What you will need: Plumeria Seeds, something to soak them in, paper towels, 2” x 3” Gro-Tech FlexiPlugs and trays or plugs or good seedling soil mix to plant the seeds in, Vitazyme, Carl Pool’s Root Activator, Bioblast 7-7-7, Pro-Mix BX Mycorrhizae, Excalibur VI 11-11-13, Labels and permanent felt tip marker. Hydrogen Peroxide is good to use for mold or fungus.

Seed selection

Seed selection is very important when growing plumeria seeds. Plumeria Rubra seeds do not produce true to their parents. Sometimes a seedling will look like its parent, but it will never be exactly the same. A few characteristics to consider:

Flower: Color, size, keeping quality (how long it lasts after picking), fragrance, etc.
Tree: Growing habit, size, etc.
Leaves: Color, size, etc.
Blooming: Quality, size of inflorescence/flower stalk, number of flowers blooming at the same time, how long does it bloom, etc.

I’m always trying to improve my chances of getting that spectacular plumeria seedling.

If possible:

Select a pod parent that is known to produce the characteristics you desire or at least a pod parent that has the characteristics you desire.
Obtain seeds from trusted growers.
Find out the history of the pod, e.g., What’s growing close to the pod? Did they bloom at the same time? Was it cross-pollinated, manually pollinated, or pollinated by nature?
Obtain all the seeds from a pod when possible.
Select seeds from a healthy tree.
Select seeds that are plump and look healthy.

Before you plant your seeds

Soak plumeria seeds to test the viability and soften the shell to give them a kick start.

When: Plumeria seeds germinate best in the spring, but can be germinated any time if provided with enough moisture and warmth staying above 60 degrees.

What: Use quality seeds, warm water, and Vitazyme

How:

First, examine each seed by placing it between two fingers. If they have some thickness, they most likely are viable. If they feel paper-thin, they most likely are not viable.
For faster germination and rooting, dilute Vitazyme with warm water at a rate of 1 oz to 19 oz of water, a 5% solution, and dip or mist both sides of the seed. Allow seeds to dry prior to planting or soaking.
For a soaking mixture, dilute Vitazyme with warm water at a rate of about 1.29% or 1 oz to 128 oz (1 gallon).
Place your seeds in the container, place in a warm area, and allow to soak for approximately 4-6 hours (or even overnight). Soaking longer than overnight could cause damage to the seeds. Seeds that are very thin and are still floating are most likely not viable. To further test this, plant all the seeds, but mark the ones that did not sink.
Check your seeds after several hours to see which seeds are absorbing enough liquid to allow germination and to sink to the bottom.
Do not allow your seeds to dry out before you plant them.
Now your seeds are ready to plant.

Why:

To soften the seed’s protective coating
To allow the seed to absorb as much water as possible
To test the viability of the seed
To provide nutrients as early as possible, helping germination and starting the rooting process sooner

Preparing Plugs

When: Prior to planting seeds in plugs.

What: 2”x3” Grow-Tech peat plugs, warm water, Root Activator, and Vitazyme.

What we suggest: A mixture of warm water, Vitazyme, and Carl Pool’s Root Activator.

How: Soak your plugs in a mixture of 1 gal of warm water, 2 oz Root Activator, and 1 oz Vitazyme for about 2 hours.

Why: Vitazyme is a bio stimulate with vitamins that help the overall health of the seeds and the Root Activator adheres to the plugs or soil and gives the roots a kick-start. I use the plugs because they hold the right amount of moisture and provide ample aeration that allows the new roots to breathe.

Watering: Keep your plugs wet or leave them soaking until you are ready to plant the seeds.

Planting your seeds

When: Plant your seeds right after soaking into the prepared plugs. DO NOT allow either to dry out. If they dry out they could be damaged.

Plugs, Pots or Trays, After Soaking, For the seeds, I grow for new cultivars, I prefer planting the seeds directly into 2″ x 3″ Grow-Tech FlexiPlugs, a foam peat plug. For the seeds, I’m growing for rootstock in flat trays or 4″ pots.

What: Carefully selected plumeria seeds, 2”x3” Grow-Tech FlexiPlugs. Warm water, Root activator, and Vitazyme. You will also need a 36-hole tray and a flat for the plugs. A cover is optional.

Why: The reason I use the plugs is they hold moisture allowing me to keep them soaked with water and still providing ample aeration and allowing the new roots to breathe. I use the 2” x 3” FlexiPlugs that allows me up to 14-21 days before I have to transplant to pots.

Watering – I grow Plumeria seeds in full sun and water 2-3 times a day depending on the weather. My goal is to keep the plugs very moist to the touch. I have had no damping off or rotting problems with this method.

Start Fertilizing – Foliage

When: Before transplanting the plugs into pots, after three or four true leaves have grown. I use the same mix ( see below) approximately every two weeks

What: BioBlast 7-7-7 NPK fertilizer, Vitazyme

How: Foliar feeding early in the morning or late in the evening with Bioblast at 1 tablespoon per 1 gallon of water and Vitazyme at 1 tablespoon per gallon. Do not spray in the hot sun it will burn the seedling leaves.

Why: Seedlings have seed leaves that provide them with nutrients for the first few weeks of their life, but when the seed leaves dry up and fall off the seedling needs nutrients. Bioblast works with every part of your plant. Soil organisms are invigorated with Vitazyme bio-stimulants providing quicker, more vigorous growth. Roots are encouraged with our Root Activator. A balanced 7-7-7 NPK provides the essentials of plant growth and structure. B-Vitamins and Zinc encourage a robust immune system, while Iron promotes chlorophyll production in the leaves.

Watering – I continue to grow Plumeria the seedlings in full sun and water at least 2-3 times a day depending on the weather. My goal is to keep the plugs moist to the touch. I’ve had no damping off or rotting problems.

Transplanting to Pots and Fertilizing

When: As soon as I see roots sticking out of the plugs, transplant into larger pots. Normally I will use 1 gal pots, but this year I’m using 7.5 gal squat pots. Approximately 14 days after planting in the plugs.

What: ProMix BX Mycorrhizae, Excalibur VI 11-11-14 with micronutrients, Vitazyme, and Root activator.

How: Fill 1 gal. pot with a mixture of ProMix BX Mycorrhizae mixed with 2 tablespoons of Excalibur Vi. Fill a 7 1/2 gal. squat pot with ProMix BX Mycorrhizae or the mix of your choice, dig an area our in the mix about the size of a 1 gal pot, port the contents of the 1 gal pot in the hole, then punch a hole about the size of the FlexiPlug (about 2″x3″) in the center of the filled 7 1/2 gal pot. Place the plugin the hole and press the mix firmly around the plug. Water in well with a mix of Vitazyme 1 oz to 1 gal and Root Activator 2 oz to 1 gal. You may need to add more soil mix if the plug is not covered completely with at least ½” of the mix. Water again the next day and then when the soil is almost dry. I would suggest using a water meter from time to time to verify the moisture content. It is very important the soil does not stay wet.

Why: Promix BX contains Mycorrhizae and is a fast-draining mix. The Excalibur VI, a 6-month granular slow-release fertilizer designed specifically for plumeria that provides all the nutrients a seedling needs to grow strong. Vitazyme a bio-stimulate helps the overall health of the seedlings and the Root Activator adheres to the soil and is there to help the roots develop and grow faster.

Watering – Water once a day for the first two days, then water when the soil is barely moist. At this point, I check with a moisture meter and water when on the low side of moist. It is important not to overwater, keeping the excess soil mix from becoming water-soaked. It is also important not to allow the root zone to become dry.

Fertilizing – Throughout the growing season

When: Apply Excalibur VI every six months, Foliar feed every two weeks to every month with BioBlast.

What: Excalibur VI 11-11-13, BioBlast 7-7-7, Vitazyme and Carl Pool’s Root activator

How: After 6 months, I spread 3 or 4 tablespoons of Excalibur VI on the top of the soil and mix in the top 1-2” of the soil. The seedling should still be in the 7 1/2 gal squat pot. Foliar feed with BioBlast 1 oz to 1 gallon and Vitazyme 1 oz to 1 gal every month or less. Drench with Vitazyme and Root Activator in the Early Spring or if transplanting.

Why: Excalibur provides a balanced slow-release fertilizer specifically designed for plumeria. BioBlast works with every part of your plant. Soil organisms are invigorated with Vitazyme bio-stimulants providing quicker, more vigorous growth. Roots are encouraged with our Root Activator.

If possible, do not let seedlings go dormant their first winter. You can treat seedlings as adult plumeria after the first growing season.

Keep looking for more space, they will grow!

Most Produces on this page can be found at Florida Colors Nursery

2014 Seed Projects

2014 – April-May Seed Projects

As many of you know, I’ve been trying to get seedlings to bloom in less than 18 months for many years. I’ve been experimenting for years with many failures. But this year, I’ve had some success. Overall, I feel the attention to roots and my location in Zone 10B are the keys to my success. My latest seed project started on 3/11/2014,

Obviously, your conditions, products used and techniques differ from mine, but this is what I have done and what products I used. I’ve provided as many product details as possible so you can substitute what is available in your area.

The main ingredients are Vitazyme, Root Activator, and Excalibur. This year, I have introduced Bioblast for foliar feeding. However, the most important factor is our subtropical location in Zone 11A.

Updated Sept 2, 2015, out of almost 300 seeds from 6 different varieties from two different countries, 19 seedlings have produced or attempted to produce an inflo out of 4 of the varieties.

Group 1: Temptation aka PC33 (pod parent) crossed with Super Round aka J115 (pollen parent) – 1 seed pod produced 28 seeds, 24 were viable and planted on 4/11/14 – 8 seedlings have put on an inflo or nubbed. The first inflos was found on 6/22/15 and the last on 9/1/15. As of 9/18/2018, all but two have bloomed.

Photo Gallery of Blooms from Group 1 – Temptation and Super Round Cross:
All these are from the same seedpod.

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Group 2: Super Round aka J115 pod parent, self-pollinated – 120 Seeds planted on 5/6/14 – 9 seedlings have put on inflos. The first one was 15 months. 1 nubbed. One was blown off the table by the wind and broke off.
Group 3; Chompoo Zin (seeds came from Thailand) – 32 seeds planted on 5/6/14 – 1 seedling has inflo found 8/28/15
Group 4: Fire and Rain (seeds came from Thailand) – 42 seeds planted on 5/6/14 – 1 seedling has inflo found on 9/1/15. One so far is a keeper.
Group 5: Camelot – 38 seeds from one seed pod…sadly no inflos from my babies yet as of 9/1/15. 29 out of 38 have bloomed as of 9/18/2018

Photo Gallery of Blooms from Group 5 – Camelot x J115:
All these are from the same seedpod.

Group 6; Penang Peach – 24 seeds…none have put on inflos. as of 9/1/15

The attached photos are the two best so far. Others have bloomed but are rootstock grade. I’m patiently waiting for others to bloom. The attached photos are the two best so far. Others have bloomed but are rootstock grade. I’m patiently waiting for others to bloom.

This is what I did. Every day, it seems I’m trying to improve each phase. So please remember this is still a work in progress!

Materials used:

Plumeria Seeds – It is very important to select viable quality seeds. It is possible to get a spectacular plumeria out of any plumeria variety. It is much more likely to get a spectacular plumeria out of a spectacular plumeria.

Soaking Seeds – Optional

Last year, I soaked my seeds in a kelp solution before planting and they sprouted in about two days. I would never use bleach in the soaking solution. If you are worried about contamination, try soaking in chamomile tea or 3% hydrogen peroxide instead. Hydrogen peroxide, both in soak and rinse solutions: 1 oz. of 3% H²O² to 1 pint of water. Sprouts come up faster. Some people have reported sprouts in 24 to 48 hours.

Some gardeners recommend adding something acidic, like a tablespoon or three of coffee or a few drops of kitchen vinegar. The idea is to recreate conditions in an animal’s stomach, where many seeds first get the warm, dark, damp idea to germinate. Anybody who’s seen a berry-laden pile of bear scat understands. We haven’t tried this method — no bear would cooperate — so we can’t vouch for the claim that it hurries the soaking process or increases the germination rate.

Soak/Dip seeds in Bioblast for about a minute or two. Longer is not better!
Soak overnight or for about 8 hours in plain water – keep about 85 degrees if possible.

Planting Seeds

Pre Soak or Drench soil in Soil Mix A

Note: Compressed Coir / Worm Casting

If using Compressed Pellets – Expand with Liquid Mix A
Soak, or drench filled Coir pots with Liquid Mix A

Note: Keep planted mix moist by misting daily and watering when necessary.

Mist with Water or Optionally Mist often with Bioblast – 1/3 tablespoon per gallon

Plant seeds in 3” or 4” Coir Pots filled with Soil Mix A. (I’m trying CowPots this year: see below)

Note: Added Bioblast this year – 2015 (Mist with Bioblast weekly – You need 3 to 5 leaves)

LIQUID MIX A:

1 oz Vitazyme per gal
2 oz Root Activator per gal (Caution! This mix is for soaking or drenching; do not spray on leaves.)

Always use a sterile growing medium like mixes with vermiculite and perlite for your seed starting as these should not contain the fungi that cause damping-off. Water your seedlings with warm water left to sit for an hour or more to dissipate most of the chemicals in tap water. Using cold water stresses the seedlings, leaving them vulnerable to harmful organisms.

SOIL MIX A:

1/3 Premier Pro-Mix BX -Mycorrhizae
1/3 Quality Coir
1/3 Quality Worm Castings
We may need to add perlite to ensure good drainage.

Transplanting to 1 gal pot

When roots come out of the Coir Pots, transplant to 1 gal / 6 ½” black plastic pot
Partially fill one gal pot so a 3” pot will set on top of the soil, but the top of the 3” pot does not extend higher than the soil level in the filled one gal pot.
Optional: Allow the 3” pot to set on top of the soil until roots are established and the 3” pot starts to degrade.
Fill the one gal with Soil Mix B until the top of the 3” pot is covered
Add two tablespoons of Excalibur IX to the top of the pot and cover with 1” of Soil Mix B
Soak or drench with Liquid Mix A

SOIL MIX B:

1/3 Quality Coir
1/3 Worm Castings
1/3 Perlite
Foliar feed with Liquid Mix B

Continue to Foliar Feed with Bioblast every two weeks – 1 tablespoon Bioblast per gallon.

Transplant to 3 gal pot.

When roots come out of the 6 ½” pot, transplant to a 3 gal pot and fill with Soil Mix B
Soak or Drench after transplant with Liquid Mix A
Add two tablespoons of Excalibur VI to the top of the pot and cover with 1” of Soil Mix B
Foliar feed with Liquid Mix C:
Continue to Foliar feed with Bioblast every two weeks

LIQUID MIX C:

BR61 – 1 tablespoon per gallon
Vitazyme – 2 tablespoons per gallon
One tablespoon of Dawn Liquid Soap

Soil Mix A

1/3 Premier Pro-Mix BX -Mycorrhizae
1/3 Fine ground Coir
1/3 Worm Castings
We may need to add perlite to ensure good drainage.

CowPots give seedlings a better beginning. (Testing in 2015)

Tender, young roots easily penetrate the sides and bottoms of CowPots, growing freely. This allows for air pruning and the formation of root buds. Secondary root development throughout the pot grows into dense, healthy root systems recognized as critical to growing healthy plants.

CowPots stay intact for up to 12 weeks – plenty of time to give seedlings a robust start.

The “pots you plant” – no crushing or tearing of pot wall needed. Place the planted CowPot in the ground. Plants suffer no transplant shock and establish themselves immediately.

Planted CowPots break down fast underground because of the nitrogen in composted cow manure. Within 3 to 4 weeks, decomposition is well underway. In studies comparing bio containers, CowPots vs. peat pots, CowPots degraded 88% compared to competing containers.

CowPots have been rigorously tested and validated by numerous universities and independent nursery partners. Testing has revealed that starting plants in CowPots can help shorten the growing cycle and increase fruit set by up to 10%!

3-1/2” Coir Pot with Wafers, Pack of 10

Just pop the soil wafers into the pots, add water, and stir—so easy!

Tired of lugging heavy bags of potting soil around? Save your back with Wonder Soil. Add water to the compressed soil and watch it expand up to 7 times its original volume. This soil-less medium is great for seed starting and contains a mix of coconut coir, peat moss, nutrients, and water-absorbing polymers. These special biodegradable polymers store and release water as needed for healthier plants and less watering and recommended for seeds.

Just pop the Wonder Soil wafers into the pots, add water, and stir. The neat little wafers expand to become exactly the right amount of soil for planting seeds. In addition to being less messy than potting soil, it promotes the quick growth of plants. And the all-natural pot makes re-potting the plant simple! Includes ten coir pots and wafers.

Coir

Coir maintains excellent air porosity even when saturated and gives better crops with faster developing roots and more flowers and fruit per plant when used correctly.

Coir has better water retention qualities than peat and other growing media. This has obvious advantages in dry climates or when plants cannot be watered frequently, such as in transit to market.

Coir peat absorbs moisture immediately, even from a dry state (unlike sphagnum peat, which tends to shrink when dry and form a water-repellent crust that causes water run-off from the top surface and water loss between the peat and the inside edge of the flower pot). Thus, plants growing in coir tend to recover better and more quickly from dry conditions.

The ease of re-wetting and the quick drainage characteristics of coir mean that coir needs to be irrigated less frequently and for shorter periods. This leads to reduced leaching losses of nutrients and lower water use.

The inherent qualities of coir and the optimum water/air availability are ideal for quick rooting and propagation. This often leads to more seedling rotations per year, a higher percentage of seedling and propagation take-up, and more efficient use of greenhouse equipment.

The lignin content of around 45% ensures that the excellent water/air ratio is maintained over a longer period than with many other substrates.

Because Coir originates above ground, it does not contain any soil diseases. In fact, several studies have indicated that coir substrate increases resistance to pythium and other root diseases.

Premier Pro-Mix BX -Mycorrhizae

Ingredients:

Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss (75-85% by volume)
Perlite -horticultural grade
Vermiculite-horticultural grade
Dolomitic and Calcitic limestone (pH adjuster)
Wetting Agent
Mycorrhizae- endo mycorrhizal inoculum (Glomus intraradices)

PRO-MIX BX MYCORRHIZAE is a general-purpose peat-based professional growing media designed for a wide range of greenhouse and transplanting applications that contain mycorrhizal inoculum (Glomus intraradices). These microscopic fungi attach to and colonize the root systems working in symbiosis with plants. It benefits the plant by increasing water and nutrient acquisition (especially phosphorus, copper, and zinc). This symbiotic relationship between fungi and plants results in overall improved plant growth. PRO-MIX BX MYCORRHIZAE is suitable for a wide variety of horticultural plants

Benefits**

This product answers the needs of most growing applications
Lightweight, low bulk density
High water retention capacity
Vermiculite improves nutrient retention
MYCORRHIZAE improves the overall growth of plants and increases yields of flowers/fruits

Carl Pool’s Root Activator

Description: Natural glycosides derived from pecan shells and water. Glycosides comprise a wide array of substances that comprise a significant proportion of cellular and tissue contents of plants and have a critical influence on plants in root, stem, and leaf development. Beneficial flavonoids often occur as glycosides; some are important coloring agents for flowers attracting insects and birds, while others promote disease resistance. This product prevents transplanting shock and stimulates fast root growth and forking of the root system.

Ingredients:

Glycosides 7.5%
Gibberellin 0.03%
3-Indolaecetic Acid 0.02%
Kinetin 0.02%
Inert: 92.43%

Vital Earth’s Vitazyme

WHAT IS VITAZYME?

Vitazyme is an all-natural liquid biostimulant with particular biological activators created through a proprietary fermentation process. These active agents include vitamins, enzymes, triacontanol, and other powerful but gentle growth stimulators. In the future, agriculture must emphasize the use of biological systems and not rely solely upon chemical approaches to achieve long-term soil productivity. Vitazyme promotes soil life by working with the natural ecosystem to invigorate rhizoshperic activity.

INCREASE CROP YIELDS AND PROFITS
IMPROVE CROP QUALITY
REDUCE FERTILIZER NITROGEN INPUTS
HASTEN GERMINATION AND MATURITY
IMPROVE SOIL STRUCTURE AND INFILTRATION

Excalibur Fertilizer

Excalibur is a water sensitive slow-release granular fertilizer. Granular fertilizers are easier to control because you can see how much fertilizer you use and where it’s being dispersed. The advantage of slow-release fertilizers is that the nutrients are available gradually over time. This means that the gardener can fertilize less often, providing nutrients slowly and steadily. This is how plumeria prefers to be fed and helps them grow well.

Excalibur is an 11-11-13 mix of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K)

Micronutrients – The Hidden Story…And, Often Only Delivered by Slow Release Fertilizers! Excalibur contains the Micronutrients essential to plant growth and health that are only needed in very small quantities.

Copper(Cu = 0.110%) is a component of some enzymes and vitamin A. Symptoms of copper deficiency, include browning of leaf tips and chlorosis.
Iron(Fe = 0.484%) is essential for chlorophyll synthesis, so an iron deficiency produces chlorosis.
Manganese(Mn = 0.358%) activates some important enzymes involved in chlorophyll formation. Manganese deficient plants will develop chlorosis between the veins of their leaves. The availability of manganese is partially dependent on soil pH.
Molybdenum(Mo = 0.005%) is essential to plant health. Plants use molybdenum to reduce nitrates into usable forms. Some plants use it for nitrogen fixation. Thus, some soils may need to be added before seeding legumes.
Zinc(Zn = .110%) participates in chlorophyll formation and activates many enzymes. Symptoms of zinc deficiency include chlorosis and stunted growth.

Bioblast Fertilizer

Bioblast works with every part of your plant. Soil organisms are invigorated with Vitzyme biostimulants, which provide quicker, more vigorous growth. Rooting is encouraged with our Root Activator. A balanced NPK provides the essentials of plant growth and structure. B vitamins and Zinc encourage a robust immune system, while Iron promotes chlorophyll production in the leaves.

How Plumeria Seeds Form and Germinate

Seed Formation

Plants reproduce using eggs and sperm, just like people. However, they don’t have physical sex! Male plants release pollen, which fertilize ovaries. The fertilized ovaries develop into seeds, which can then be distributed to make new plants. As the fertilized ovaries develop, a surplus of carbohydrates and proteins are stored inside the seed. This will serve as food for the plant until it can develop leaves. Next, the fertilized plant ovaries develop the hardened coat we see as the outside of seeds to protect them against harsh environmental conditions. The seeds then can be carried away by wind or animals to create new plants.

Seed Structure

A seed consists of three main parts: an embryo, an endosperm and a seed coat. The embryo is a tiny plant that will grow into a full-sized plant once the seed germinates. A large part of the interior of a seed is taken up by the endosperm, which is made up of proteins and carbohydrates that nourish the embryo for the first few days after germination. These two structures are enclosed by the seed coat, which protects the seed until it germinates.

Seed Coat Dormancy

Hard seed coats that are impermeable to air and water induce a type of dormancy, called seed-coat dormancy, by restricting the embryo’s access to air and water. Embryos can’t grow without air and water, so the seed remains dormant until the seed coat is penetrated. This protects the embryo by preventing germination before the time is right. In nature, a seed coat can be broken down by microorganisms, weathering, fire or being partially digested by animals.

Breaking Through Seed Coats

Nature has a plan for breaking through seed coats, but when a gardener plants seeds in the garden he doesn’t want to wait for the seed to complete the seed-coat dormancy cycle naturally. Manually abrading or softening the seed coat is called scarification. You can scarify seeds by nicking them with nail clippers or a sharp knife, abrading them with sandpaper. Take care that you don’t damage the internal embryo when nicking or abrading seed coats. However the most popular method is simply soaking them in warm water for 4 hours or overnight.

Plumeria Seed Germination

Germination is the process of seeds developing into new plants. First, environmental conditions must trigger the seed to grow. Usually, this is determined by how deep the seed is planted, water availability, and temperature. When water is plentiful, the seed fills with water in a process called imbibition. The water activates special proteins, called enzymes, that begin the process of seed growth.

First the seed grows a root to access water underground. Next, the shoots, or growth above ground, begin to appear. The seed sends a shoot towards the surface, where it will grow leaves to harvest energy from the sun. The leaves continue to grow towards the light source in a process called photomorphogenesis. Plumeria seeds begin the germination process when the seed coat is interrupted and the internal parts of the seed begin to take up water. As the seed swells and the embryo gains access to oxygen, it begins to metabolize the available store of carbohydrates and make proteins that will become radicles, the lower part of the plant that becomes roots, and the plumule, the shoot eventually becomes the upper foliage. As the roots form they descend into the soil in search of moisture and nutrients, while the shoot pushes its way above the soil.

Influencing Factors

Several factors influence if, and how, seeds germinate. The most important factors are water availability and temperature.

Water is crucial to seed germination. The seed must go through imbibition to activate root growth. However, too much water can be a bad thing, as most gardeners know. When a plant is still growing underground, during root formation, it cannot use the sun to make food like most grown plants do. It must rely on the stored food inside the seed, and oxygen from the environment to make energy. If the soil is too soggy, there will not be enough oxygen and the plant will not thrive.

Temperature is also an important factor. Plumeria seeds only germinate when the weather reaches spring temperatures, which is why we see so much plant growth in the spring in temperate climates.

There are three basic parts of a plumeria seed: an embryo, food storage or nutritive tissue, and the seed covering.

Embryo

A mature plumeria seed has a diploid embryo which develops from a fertilized egg or zygote. It results from the union of a sperm, from a germinated pollen, with a female egg in the embryo sac. The embryo can be distinguished from the other major parts of a seed based on component parts and function. It consists of the epicotyl, hypocotyl, radicle, and two cotyledons. It is the one which develops into a plant with an upward growing shoot and a downward growing root system.

The epicotyl is a tiny shoot from which the entire plant shoot system develops. The growing tip of the epicotyl is the plumule. The hypocotyl is the transition zone between the rudimentary root and shoot; the radicle is a small embryonic root. Cotyledons are specialized seed leaves which develop from the plumule and occur in pairs in dicot seeds. They are the most prominent part of a fully developed embryo. Monocot means one cotyledon while dicot means two cotyledons.

Storage Tissues

The stored food is present in plumeria seeds in the form of carbohydrates, fats and proteins. This stored food is found in the cotyledons of the Plumeria seed. The stored food is used to support the embryo during seed germination. In the Plumeria the cotyledons serve as the food-storage tissue. When the embryo stores its own food reserve, within the cotyledons, the seed is called exalbuminous.

Seed Coating

When you look at a hard seed such as a bean, corn or nasturtium seed, you’re not seeing the actual seed but the seed coat. A hard seed coat protects the internal parts from drying out and prevents water and insects from accessing the tender embryo inside. It also prevents premature germination by forcing the seed to remain dormant until the time is right.

The seed coat is developed from the outer covering of the ovule, or integument. But it is not immediately apparent in the angiosperms because the seed is encased in a fruit wall or pericarp. `

There are usually two layers of the seed coat. The outer layer, known as the testa, is thicker. The inner one is more delicate, known as tegmen.

Externally, some parts of a seed are obvious. On some seed coats, the opening in the integuments of the ovule, called micropyle, is visible. The hilum is usually visible also, the scar left by the stalk which attached the seed to the placenta. The hilum is equivalent to the navel in humans to which the umbilical cord is attached. It appears dark in color when the seed becomes physiologically mature and is thus used as an indicator of seed maturity.

From the outside, seeds may be smooth, wrinkled, or hairy as in cotton, or winged. In the castor bean (Ricinus communis), there is wart-like growth at the hilum, called the caruncle. In mangosteen, the seeds are enveloped by a white fleshy aril which is edible.

Reproductive Parts of A Plumeria

Leaves, stems, roots, flowers – you know the basic anatomy of plants. But if you’re growing plumeria from seed and you should know the parts important to forming plumeria seeds, it helps to get familiar with the reproductive parts of a plumeria. Plumeria have all of the vital parts in one flower. Here are the key players and what you need to know about them.

Stamen

The male parts of a flower consist of an elongated cluster of sacs, called an anther, which emerges atop a thin filament when the flower opens. Inside the sacs are particles of pollen, which sit on the outside of the anther until wind, bees or other pollinators transfer it to the female parts. Together, the anther and filament are known as the stamen (pronounced “stay-men”). If you want your plants to produce seeds or fruit in an indoor garden, you can help by using a small thin paint brush to transfer the pollen grains from the male stamen to the female stigma. If your goal is to get unfertilized flowers with no seeds, you want to snip off the stamen as soon as they appear so none of the pollen is transferred.

Stigma

On the female side, the pollen needs to land on one of two upright stigmas, one-quarter to one-half inch long, usually pale-colored, that come up from a little green pod called the floral bract. Though it’s only about ⅛ inch across and ¼ inch long, the bract is like the womb: when pollen reaches it through the stigma, a seed develops within each bract and causes it to swell.

Calyx

The stigma and bract show up first inside a tight cluster of tiny leaf-like sepals. The cluster, called a calyx (say it “kay-licks”), may also contain glands that secrete sticky substances which help pollen grains stick to the stigma.

Pistil

To further ensure successful pollination, some species produce pistils from the calyx. These thin strands often appear as short, red-orange, “hairs.” The pistils gather pollen from the air and move it down into the plant’s ovary, where it stimulates the production of the seed.

Colas

Flower buds typically form on top of a cluster of leaves at the end of a limb, the spots that get the most light. The terminal spots are known as colas (like the soda). Experienced growers use plant-training techniques to increase the number of colas on a plant, which leads to increases in volume and size of the flower buds.

Plumeria Seed Selections

Good quality seeds are essential to grow a strong and healthy plumeria. Healthy seeds can be bought from trusted sources or growers can produce their own seed pods. In that case, seed selection can be used to improve the quality of seedlings. Even if seeds are selected carefully, they still may carry diseases. In these cases seed treatment (e.g. hot water treatment or chemical seed treatment) could be used to further improve the quality of the seeds.

Small, shriveled and broken seeds contain less nutrition for the developing seedling. By removing these inferior seeds, the grower is able to grow stronger and healthier seedlings.

While seed selection is mainly aimed at obtaining healthier seeds, it can be used also to maintain and improve the quality of your plumeria seedlings. When growing plumeria from seed, there are always differences between plants. Plumeria Rubra seeds do not produce true to their parents. It’s rare to seed a seedling look like its parent, although it can happen, the seedling will never be exactly the same as a parent. Some plants may have characteristics that are more suitable than those of other plants. During the growing season, the grower should observe these differences and mark preferred plants with a ribbon or with a stick. When those plants produce seed pods, the seeds of these plants can be reserved for growing the next group of seedlings. In this way, the grower can slowly improve the quality of their seedlings.

The selection of these plumeria seeds may be based on characteristics such as the size of the plant, color of flower, blooming traits, etc. But selection can also be done to keep seeds of plumeria that suffered less attacks by insects or diseases.

In this way, the grower will select the best seeds to be kept apart for the next season. Still, just before starting the seeds, it is recommended to select once more to remove seeds that are too small, spotted, deformed, discolored, etc.

Selection of Parent or Parents

When thinking about choosing a pod parent you should take into consideration which characteristics you would like your new seedling to have:

Flower: Color, Size, Keeping Quality
Fragrance, etc.
Tree: Growing Habit.
Leaves: Color, Size, etc.
Blooming: Quality, Size of Inflorescence, Number of flowers blooming at the same time, How long does it bloom, etc.

The goal is to get a spectacular plumeria seedling that has some of the characteristics you want in your new Plumeria.

To help you better understand why. If a seed pod has 40 seeds and the seeds can inherit genes from 7 generations back, you can understand why it is common for each of seeds from the same pod to have completely different genes and look nothing alike.

If Possible:

Select a pod parent that is known to produce the characteristic you desire or at least a pod parent that has the characteristics you desire.
Obtain seeds from trusted growers.
Find out the history of the pod. i.e. What’s growing close to the pod, did they bloom at the same time. Was it cross pollinated (it will be very rare to find seeds for sale that has been cross pollinated), manually pollinated by human or pollinated by nature (could be self pollinated or by insects)?
Obtain all the seeds from a pod when possible.
Select seeds from a healthy tree.
Select seeds that are plump and look healthy.

A couple of general observations:

Large seeds usually produce larger seedling and small seeds usually produce smaller plumeria.
Dark colored seedling generally produce darker seedling then lighter colored seeds.
When a seedling is dark in color, dark leaves and dark trunk, there is a better chance of getting a flower with nice color. But I have seen dark trunk and dark leaves on seedling that produced white flowers. The reverse is also true.

I feel the most important factor in pollination and seed selection is the selective of parents or at least the selection of the pod parent! Many years ago I planted about 15 seeds from Penang Peach, one seedling that bloomed in 2009 exceeded my expectations, we named it Camelot. It turned out to be a great seed producer and I’ve been planting seeds for Camelot every year. In 2013, I started experimenting with pollination and cross-pollinate. As a result, I got one seed pods that producing a total 38 seeds from Camelot. I planted them in 2014 and in 2016 some of the seedlings started to bloom and in 2017 more bloomed, so far I have 18 plus I consider to be keepers. Several stood out, one I named Merlin, because it is very similar to Camelot and Penang Peach. Now I hope to get seeds from Merlin in 2018 and cross to introduce a few more desirable characteristics.

I selected Penang Peach because of its variations in flower colors, fantastic blooming, compact grower and history of producing quality seedling. Some of the seedling from Penang Peach are: Camelot, Australia, Barry’s Orange, California Sunset, CS3, Della Nui, Dtaeng Mo, Elsie, George Brown, J105, Parameno, Pink Diamond, Pride of Nui, Purple Jack, Tropical Aurora, Wasitee and many more are believed to be seedling of Penang Peach.

Seeds from some of the Parents I’m most interested this year are Penang Peach, Camelot, Clare Corre, Super Round, J105, Jamaican Fire and others. More details on my 2018 Pollination Projects.

Before You Start Growing Plumeria Seeds

Plumeria seeds are fun to grow and can provide you with many years of pleasure. Before you begin you should consider seed choices and the limitations of your growing environment and conditions. Something to remember, Plumeria Rubra seeds do not grow true to its parents and they will take up lots of space and attention until they bloom. The average time to bloom is from two the three years, some shorter and some can take much longer.

Choosing the Right Plumeria Seeds

Before exploring how to best grow your plumeria seeds and seedlings, you need to think about starting with the right seeds. If you intend to grow for grafting rootstock or you want to grow a new cultivar, you should use the best quality seeds.

What Do Plumeria Seeds Need to Germinate?

Viable plumeria seeds are living entities. They must contain living, healthy embryonic tissue in order to germinate. All fully developed seeds contain an embryo, a store of food reserves, wrapped in a seed coat. Seeds generally “wake up” and germinate when soil moisture and temperature conditions are correct for them to grow.

Seeds and Seedlings Need the Right Environment to Germinate

Temperature, moisture, air, and light conditions must be correct for seeds to germinate. All seeds have optimal temperature ranges for germination. The minimum temperature is the lowest temperature at which seeds can germinate effectively. The maximum is the highest temperature at which seeds can germinate. Anything above or below this temperature can damage seeds or make them go into dormancy. At optimal temperatures, germination is rapid and uniform, for plumeria seeds usually 5-10 days.

Plumeria seeds need correct moisture to initiate internal processes leading up to germination. A fine-textured seedbed and good seed-to-soil contact are necessary for optimal germination. Aeration in the soil media allows for good gas exchange between the germinating embryo and the soil. Seeds respire just like any other living organism. They need oxygen and produce carbon dioxide (CO₂). This carbon dioxide needs to be able to move away from the seed. If the soil or media is not well aerated due to overwatering or compaction, the CO₂ will not dissipate and seeds can suffocate.

Not all seeds have the same light requirements. Most seeds germinate best under dark conditions and might even be inhibited by light. Don’t confuse seed light requirements with what seedlings need. All seedlings require sunlight. Seedlings will become leggy and fragile and will not grow to their potential if they do not have sufficient light.

Soil temperature conditions for plumeria seed germination, Minimum (F) 60, Optimum Range (F) 75-95, Optimum (F) 85, Mazimum (F) 95. Soil temperatures should be taken by inserting a soil thermometer 3-4 inches deep into the soil surface and noting temperature.

Growing Plumeria Seedling Need Space

After you find the perfect seeds from a trusted source. You are ready to think about the time and space. Not only to germinate them, but to grow them until you need them for rootstock or until they bloom. You will also need to commit to 3 – 5 years or longer of care. Seedling need the same care as your mature plumeria or maybe more. If you plant 50 seedling, look at the space 50 mature plant would take. Remember to take into consideration storing for winter, if you are in an area that freezes or gets frost.

If you thinking of naming a seedling please click here to check this list of known plumeria names and AKA’s

OK, now you are ready to embark on a journey like no other, the joy of growing Plumeria from Seed. Have fun!

Growing Plumeria Seedlings – How Plumeria Seeds Form and Germinate

1-18-2018 Updates – Seed and Seedling Projects

Posted on January 15, 2018 by texn

Jan 15, 2018

2018 Seed Project preparation started today. I checked to be sure I have everything I need for my projects.

Gathering Supplies Needed:

2″x3″ FlexiPlugs plugs and trays.
Vitazyme
Carl Pool’s Root Activator
Bioblast 7-7-7
Excalibur VI, 11-11-13 – I use Six-month slow release because we are in a longer growing season.
Merlin’s Potion
ProMix with Mycorrhizae

January 17, 2018

This year will be using 2017 as a baseline.

Merlin’s Potion from Florida Colors Nursery, not yet on the market. If 2018 experiments go well we will bring to market, but it largely depends on results from the final tests. Merlin’s Potion is an all organic product designed to boost plant health, growth and most important blooming. I developed it mainly for seedlings. I will post more about it later.

January 18, 2018

Seed inventory and selection is next….see Plumeria Seed Selection

Unfortunately, seed selection depends on what you can get or what you have.

Here is the list,

Gina,
Hope,
Heirloom,
Jackie,
Metallica,
Jack’s Purple,
Dwarf Singapore Pink,
Mardi Gras,
Aztec Gold,
Waimea,
Bonnie Fox
….so far!

January 23, 2018

Notes: The 2018 project will be divided into 6 phases:

PHASE I

Seed Selection

PHASE II

Soaking and testing seed viability.

PHASE III

Germinating Seeds

PHASE IV

Growing Seedlings to transplants size

PHASE V

Growing seedlings to the next transplant stage

PHASE VI

Growing seedlings to bloom

Depending on the weather, I’m planning on starting PHASE II, seeds soaking on Feb 1, 2018.

1-18-2018 Updates – Seed and Seedling Projects

Seedlings Started in Plugs Gallery

I first started using FlexiPlugs several years ago. I used the 1 1/2″ x 2″ the first year and found the seedlings outgrew the plugs within a week after germination, so I switched to the 2″ x 3″ FlexiPlugs.

FlexiPlugs are created by blending the highest quality peat with other organics and a foam binder. The result is a stabilized propagation medium that promotes faster rooting for cuttings while providing the consistent moisture needed for seed germination. They are pH balanced plugs, contains micronutrients and active biologicals so it has all the elements needed to promote healthy root growth and young plant vigor.

This Gallery shows FlexiPlugs being used to plant Plumeria Seeds.