How important is pH for Germination Plumeria Seeds

Germinating Plumeria Seeds: The Importance of pH

Introduction

Understanding and managing the pH of the growing medium and water is crucial in the successful germination of plumeria seeds. This comprehensive guide delves into why pH matters in seed germination, how to test and adjust pH levels, and the impact of pH on plumeria seedling growth.

What is pH?

  • pH Definition: It is a scale that measures the acidity or alkalinity of a solution, ranging from 0 (most acidic) to 14 (most alkaline).
  • Chemistry Aspect: pH measures the concentration of hydrogen ions (H+) in a solution.

Why pH Matters in Seed Germination

  • Nutrient Availability: The pH of the germination medium and water affects how well soil nutrients are available to the seeds.
  • Optimum pH for Plumeria: For plumeria seeds, aim for a slightly acidic pH level between 6.5 to 6.8 for optimal nutrient uptake.

Factors Affecting pH

  • Soil Type: Soil pH varies with the environment. For instance, dense forest soils tend to be more acidic, while arid regions often have neutral pH levels.
  • Climate Influence: Regional climate can also affect soil pH, with variations even within general ranges.

Testing and Adjusting pH

  1. Testing pH:
    • Use test strips, chemical solutions (dropper kits), or digital pH testers.
    • For soil, create a soil-water mixture and test with your chosen method. For water, test directly.
  2. Adjusting pH:
    • Make small adjustments using products mixed with water. Apply this mixture to the soil and check pH regularly.
    • Aim for a consistent pH close to the target range for plumeria.

Maintaining Optimal pH

  • Regular Checking: For soil, check pH every few weeks. In hydroponic systems, check more frequently.
  • Extreme pH Readings: Address any large deviations promptly, as they indicate potential issues like over/underfeeding or bacterial infections.

The Role of pH in Growing Media

  • Seed Germination Mixes: Most commercial germination mixes are pH neutral, around 7.0.
  • Coco Coir Consideration: Be mindful of nutrient build-up in coco coir, which can lead to acidic conditions. Regular flushing and light feeding can stabilize the pH.

Importance of Checking pH

  • Nutrient Absorption: Optimal pH allows plumeria seedlings to absorb maximum nutrients, promoting healthier growth.
  • Potential Issues: Failing to check and adjust pH can lead to nutrient imbalances, affecting seedling health and development.

Conclusion

Monitoring and adjusting the pH of the growing medium and water is essential in the germination of plumeria seeds. By maintaining the ideal pH level, you ensure your seedlings have access to the necessary nutrients for healthy growth. Regular testing and adjustments are key to successful plumeria cultivation.

Sources for Further Information

  • Explore detailed resources on soil pH and gardening techniques from extensions like UMN, ISU, and Mother Earth News.
  • Utilize educational tools like the pH Scale Basics simulation from PhET to better understand pH in gardening contexts.
  • For further guidance and advanced tips on plumeria care, consider exploring PlumeriaCareGuide.com and joining gardening communities where you can share experiences and learn from other plumeria enthusiasts.
How important is pH for Germination Plumeria Seeds

Fertilizing New Seedlings

Fertilizing New Plumeria Seedlings: A Detailed How-To Guide

Introduction

Proper fertilization is a key element in the successful growth and development of plumeria seedlings. Knowing when and how to fertilize, along with understanding the specific nutritional needs of young plumerias, is crucial. This guide provides a comprehensive overview of fertilizing plumeria seedlings, from identifying the right time to the selection of suitable fertilizers.

Recognizing the Right Time to Fertilize

  1. True Leaves Development:
    • Begin fertilizing plumeria seedlings when the first true leaves appear. These leaves, different from the initial cotyledons, indicate that the seedlings are ready to absorb more nutrients.
    • True leaves resemble the foliage of a mature plumeria, while cotyledons are generally rounded and smooth.
  2. Signs of Root Development:
    • The emergence of true leaves also suggests root development, a crucial phase for introducing fertilizer.

Choosing the Right Soil Mix and Fertilizer

  1. Soil Mix Composition:
    • A recommended mix consists of 1/3 pine bark, 1/3 peat, and 1/3 perlite with Mycorrhizae. This blend ensures good drainage and aeration while providing a stable growing medium.
  2. Fertilizer Selection:
    • Use a balanced granular fertilizer with micro-nutrients for young seedlings.
    • Slow-release fertilizers like Excalibur 11-11-14 are ideal for initial growth stages.
    • In stressful conditions (like heat or pests), quick-release granular or liquid fertilizers can provide immediate relief. Products like Excalibur BOOST 10-12-14 or Bioblast 7-7-7 are suitable choices.

Fertilization Schedule and Dosage

  1. Frequency:
    • Excalibur BOOST can be used every two months, while Bioblast can be applied every two weeks.
    • Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for dosage, adjusting as necessary based on the seedlings’ response.
  2. Application Technique:
    • Apply the fertilizer to the soil, avoiding direct contact with the seedlings.
    • Water the soil after applying granular fertilizers to help them dissolve and reach the roots.

Acclimatizing Seedlings to Sunlight

  1. Gradual Introduction to Sun:
    • If seedlings are not initially in full sun, start by placing them in a shaded outdoor area for a few hours each day.
    • Gradually increase their exposure to sunlight over several weeks.
  2. Hardening Off Process:
    • This gradual acclimatization helps the seedlings adapt to outdoor conditions, including brighter light, wind, and variable temperatures.
    • Aim for them to tolerate at least 6 hours of full sun daily.

Conclusion

Fertilizing plumeria seedlings is a delicate process that requires attention to detail and an understanding of the plant’s nutritional needs. By following these guidelines, gardeners can ensure their plumeria seedlings receive the right amount of nutrients to grow strong and healthy.

Further Learning

For more in-depth information on plumeria care, including advanced fertilization techniques, consider visiting resources like gardening blogs, nurseries, or dedicated websites like PlumeriaCareGuide.com. These platforms can provide valuable insights and personalized advice for plumeria enthusiasts at all levels.

Fertilizing New Seedlings

How Nutrients work with Plumeria Seedlings

Plumeria seedlings need nutrients as soon as possible to grow well, along with water and adequate sunlight.

When plumeria seedlings have roots they are looking for nutrients, when they have real leaves they are capable of processing nutrients into plant food via photosynthesis.

Fertilizers supplement essential nutrients in the soil needed by plumeria for healthy, vigorous growth. Contrary to popular belief, fertilizers are not plant food. Plants manufacture their own food from water and carbon dioxide through photosynthesis. Fertilizers provide the nutrients plants need to convert into plant food and grow.

To grow healthy crops full of nutrients, growers need to ensure they have healthy soil. Plants use up nutrients as they grow and without fertilizers, nature struggles to replenish the nutrients in the soil. The soil and water pH is also a major factor in a plant’s ability to convert nutrients into plant food.

A soil test is the only accurate and definitive way to determine how much of any substance is present in your soil. You can send samples to your local county extension or to a testing lab, or you can use a test kit purchased from a nursery or garden center. If the test shows a high concentration of Nitrogen, Phosphorus or Potassium, it could mean that the fertilizer you are using contains too much of it.

What is plumeria fertilizers?

Fertilizers are frequently referred to as plant food, which is really not correct. Actually, it is the carbon dioxide in the air and the water in the soil, which in the presence of sunlight are converted into sugars and carbohydrates by a process called ‘Photosynthesis’, that do the actual feeding of the plant. Fertilizer is much more analogous to vitamins. The Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium and other trace elements contained in the fertilizers are necessary for cell division and enzyme processes that allow photosynthesis and growth to proceed. A fertilizer, often referred to as plant food, is a broad term for either a mixture of chemicals or naturally occurring matter that is used for enhancing the growth of plants.

How do fertilizers work?

Fertilizers work by providing essential nutrients needed to developing flowers, roots, branches, and vegetation. Many fertilizers also improve the way the soil works by helping it to retain water better and allowing air to flow freely, very good for roots.

The main ingredients in most popular fertilizers are N, P and K the basic elements required in plant growth, Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K).

The Nitrogen element works by increasing the plant’s capacity to produce new stems, flowers or fruit. It also increases the speed at which it will grow and improves the quality and appearance of the foliage.

Phosphorus helps the plumeria produce all of that nice organic stuff like oils and starch which is great for forming large, strong root systems. Phosphorus also helps the plant to develop Chlorophyll, which allows it to turn solar energy into chemical energy (photosynthesis). Combined with Potassium, Phosphorus helps produce healthy flowers and seeds. 

Lastly, Potassium helps to build protein, fight off diseases and, just like Phosphorus, is essential in the process of photosynthesis.

All of the above are required to work together to produce a good healthy plumeria if just one of these valuable nutrients are missing or lacking your plant will struggle to produce fruits or flowers of the highest quality.

What else do plumeria love about fertilizers?

Nutrients normally occur naturally in well-maintained soils but if there’s a drainage issue or other problem, nutrients can soon disappear. Plumeria loves water but does not like to stand in water. The best soil for plumeria is soil mix that drains well and may require more watering than other soils and also causes the nutrients to wash out sooner. Adding fertilizer is a way of giving nature a helping hand.

Natural and man-made fertilizers can contain a variety of ingredients, but here are a few of the most important ones for plumeria in addition to the standard Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium as described above.

  • Zinc
  • Magnesium
  • Copper
  • Calcium
  • Sulfur
  • Manganese
  • Molybdenum
  • Iron
  • Boron

You can also get fertilizers that are fit for the purpose of a specific plant or species. These are important as different plants, Plumeria, requires a careful balance of certain nutrients. If a general purpose fertilizer is used it may not provide all the nutrients plumeria require.

Too Much Nitrogen

  • Excess Foliage Growth – One of the main actions of nitrogen is increasing chlorophyll production; this process is done by creating bigger leaf structures with larger surface areas for the photosynthesizing pigment. Excess nitrogen fuels fast foliage growth so that your garden has an appearance of a jungle gone wild, but another plant growth suffers as a consequence. Energy for flower growth is redirected to foliage proliferation, so plants may not even produce their necessary reproductive organs during the growing season.
  • Burning and Salt Concentration – If you use a high-nitrogen fertilizer mixture, you also increase the soil’s mineral salts; excessive elemental nitrogen takes water away from the plant while leaving the salts behind. As a result, the leaves take on a burnt look from dehydration. Leaf edges become yellow or brown and wilt. Flushing the area with water to remove the excess nitrogen is the best course of action to revive the plant. Although the nitrogen produces desired large foliage, you may find that the rapid growth becomes decimated with leaf burn if nitrogen stays at high levels.
  • Root Growth Stunting – Energy used for large leaf growth stifles the root system below with high nitrogen soil levels. Roots slow their naturally spreading habit since they do not have the necessary nutrients to use as energy as the elements are redirected upward. As a result, the plant may be destabilized in its soil position; if it is tall enough, it may blow over in heavy winds. Additionally, stressed roots invite disease through soil pathogens as well. In the end, both leaves and roots succumb to nitrogen-induced stresses that damage the plant throughout its length.
  • Groundwater Pollution – Plants cannot absorb all the excess nitrogen in the soil. Those extra nitrogen levels slowly leach out of the soil through water runoff; the nitrogen is effectively in the form of nitrates due to microbial conversion when it leaches from the soil. As a result, groundwater and drinking water becomes contaminated from the nitrate levels. Between harming the plants and the surrounding water supplies, high nitrogen levels around plants need to be closely monitored and amended for natural harmony.

Too Much Phosphorus!

  • Iron Deficiencies in Plants – When there is too much phosphorus in the soil, the plant’s ability to take up necessary amounts of iron is compromised. Even where soil levels are tested and show appreciable amounts of iron, plants may have trouble utilizing it because the phosphorus disrupts their natural processes. Usually, the symptoms are most evident in young plant tissues and can be confused with the symptoms of zinc deficiency, making it hard to correct the problem.
  • Zinc Deficiencies in Plants – Exactly as in the case of iron deficiencies, an overabundance of phosphorus in the soil means it is hard for plants to get necessary levels of zinc from their growing medium, even when the zinc is there for the taking. A zinc deficiency manifests in a bleaching effect of the plant tissues, in rosetted terminal leaves and in yellowing of the leaves in between the veins. Because the symptoms are often the same as iron deficiency, the best way to correct the problem is to perform soil tests to figure out how much phosphorus already exists and to add only enough to keep plants healthy.
  • Phosphorus Buildup From Application of Nitrogen – Many gardeners and crop growers use animal manure to supply the soil with nitrogen, a necessary nutrient for plant growth. Most manures contain around the same amount of nitrogen and phosphorus, but plants use 2.4 to 4.5 times as much nitrogen as phosphorus, leaving much of the phosphorus untouched in the soil. This can also happen in the application of biosolids or commercial fertilizers. In the case of commercial fertilizers, however, you can buy a mix balanced fertilizer to meet your needs, which often means that the amounts of phosphorus are lower (for instance, 20-10-10, which is 20 parts nitrogen to 10 parts each phosphorus and potassium).
  • Water Pollution – Because phosphorus is water-soluble, it easily becomes waterborne. Whenever a buildup of the nutrient in the soil cannot be utilized by plants, it is free to run off during rains into the streams, rivers, and waterways in the surrounding areas as well as leach into the water table through the soil. This increases the fertility of watery areas, called eutrophication, causing algae blooms and the explosion of quickly growing fish populations at the expense of beneficial organisms. It also makes purifying water more difficult and can result in insect increases that feed on the algae.

Too Much Phosphate 

  • Preventive Measures – Establishing the right balance between potassium and other soil components is more about controlling how much goes into the soil than trying to reduce it once it’s there. If a soil test indicates a high level of potassium, literally start from the ground up by not adding more to it in the form of a multipurpose fertilizer. Typical fertilizer blends are generally composed of the three most important substances — nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium — which are indicated on the packaging by the letters N, P, and K. Selecting a blend that is low in potassium, or K, or contains none at all, is a first step in assuring that it doesn’t build up to unsuitable levels in the soil.
  • Plant Distress Signals – Too much potassium disrupts the uptake of other important nutrients, such as calcium, nitrogen, and magnesium, creating deficiencies that usually produce visible effects. A calcium deficiency produces irregularly shaped new leaves and blossom end rot on plants, such as tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum ), that produce fruit. As frost-tender plants, tomatoes can be grown in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 to 10 if set out into the garden once the soil has warmed to at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit. A nitrogen deficiency is suspected when older lower leaves on plants turn yellow while the rest remains a light green. Plants lacking magnesium will exhibit yellowing of the edges of older leaves that may also develop an arrowhead shape in their centers. While adding more of these substances to correct the imbalance may help, the excess potassium will most likely impact their long-term effectiveness.
  • A Healthy Balance – When present in the soil in proper amounts, potassium helps with photosynthesis, the process by which plants manufacture their own food using the sun’s energy; helps plants absorb other nutrients more efficiently; creates a favorable environment for micro bacterial action; and provides turgor, or the ability of plants to stay upright. Distribute excess potassium more evenly by thoroughly working dense soil until it is loose and friable. Dilute and flush out large amounts of potassium by watering the soil any time it appears dry to a depth of one inch. Schedule any fertilizing within several weeks before planting, so that the potassium doesn’t have time to accumulate during the off-season. To minimize long-term potassium buildup, consider using aged or composted animal manure as a substitute for commercial fertilizers, as its components break down more slowly to keep up with plant demand. If using manure, apply it at a rate of 40 pounds for every 100 feet, and work it into the soil to a depth of 6 to 9 inches.
How Nutrients work with Plumeria Seedlings

When do you start fertilizing plumeria seedlings

Plumeria Seeds

Plumeria seed embryos typically contain two cotyledons and are grouped as dicots or dicotyledonous plants. It’s usually easy to tell which leaves are the cotyledons. As they are the first leaves the seedling produces, they will be the lowest ones on the stem, the ones to which an empty seed case often clings. They also won’t look like any of the other leaves on the seedling.

The cotyledons or seed leaves provide the seedling with nutrients for the first few weeks of its life, but when the seed leaves dry up and fall off, the seedling needs nutrients. Some people like to pinch off the cotyledons after the true leaves emerge. Unless those leaves are in the way, it is best to allow the seedling to decide when it’s done with them, or you may accidentally break its stem instead. Plumeria cotyledons are photosynthetic producers, as photosynthetic producers, cotyledons essentially can synthesize the organic nutrients it requires for growth through photosynthesis.

Fertilizers are frequently referred to as plant food, which is really not correct. Actually, it is the carbon dioxide in the air and the water in the soil, which in the presence of sunlight are converted into sugars and carbohydrates by a process called ‘Photosynthesis’, that do the actual feeding of the plant. Fertilizer is much more analogous to vitamins. The Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium, and other trace elements contained in the fertilizers are necessary for cell division and enzyme processes that allow photosynthesis and growth to proceed. Photosynthesis is the process in which organisms use the energy from sunlight to produce glucose, a type of sugar, in addition to releasing oxygen. This glucose is the plant’s food.

Many methods and products are used by different growers to fertilize plumeria and plumeria seedlings. I’ve been experimenting with different plumeria seed growing methods and products over the last 20 plus year. The methods and products below are what I’ve determined to work best for me considering my growing conditions in South Florida (Zone 10b), so far.

The following is my current method for fertilizing plumeria seedlings for the first four months.

Over the last 5 years or so, I’ve been germinating and growing my seedlings outside in the full sun. (your weather conditions should be considered, not too hot, not too cold) Conducting experiments regarding when and how much to fertilize seedlings, some are complete some are still ongoing.

For the best results. so far, I use foliage feed with a liquid fertilizer at 1/2 strength for the first month or so. As soon as the seedlings have grown 3 or 4 real leaves I start spraying at full strength.

Fertilizing Plumeria Seedlings

  1. Fertilize with Bioblast 777 or similar as a foliage spray. If you use other balanced fertilizers, you should experiment, starting with 1/2 strength and increasing over time. When using a balanced fertilizer, I get better root growth and thicker trunks.
  2. When using a fertilizer high in Nitrogen as a foliage spray, the seedlings got very lanky very quickly. Lanky stalks and light green leaves can be a result of growing in shade or in a location with too little sun.
  3. When I using high phosphorus fertilizers as a foliage feed, I noticed the seedlings seem to shut down and didn’t put on as many new leaves. I suspect the seedling was having a hard time absorbing other nutrients.
  4. Micronutrients are important to healthy seedlings, so fertilizers I experiment with all contain micronutrients. 

I’ve also fertilizes from the bottom up method by setting the pot or plug tray in a container filled with nutrients. Similar to hydroponic methods. 

I don’t use granular fertilizers until I transfer to soil. I grow my seedling for the first stage in foam-injected peat plugs and then transfer the plug and all into a good soil mix.

I will transplant in pots when plenty of roots are protruding out of the plugs. This usually takes 2-3 months, depending on the time of year and weather conditions. The 2″ x 3″ plugs allow me to transfer directly into a 1 gal or larger pot mixed with ProMix without damaging the roots.

When I transplant into pots, I add granular fertilizer. I use Excalibur VI and apply twice a year. The season is almost all year long in South Florida Zone 10B.

Why Use Flexi Plugs?  –  Why Use ProMix?  –  Why Use Bioblast?  –  Why Use Excalibur Plumeria Fertilizer?   

Nutrients and Fertilizers

Plumeria Seedling Nutrition

Many people confuse plant nutrition with plant fertilization. Plant nutrition refers to the needs and uses of the basic chemical elements in the plant. Fertilization is the term used when these materials are supplied to the environment around the plant. A lot must happen before a chemical element supplied in a fertilizer can be taken up and used by the plant.

Foliar Absorption: Under normal growing conditions, plants absorb most nutrients, except carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen, from the soil. However, some nutrients can also be absorbed by the leaves if they are sprayed with a dilute solution. The factors that affect absorption by the cell are still important because the nutrient must enter the cell to be used by the plant. Care must be taken that the concentration of the nutrient is not too high or the leaf will be injured. Also, the leaf is covered by a thin layer of wax called the cuticle that the nutrient must get around or through before it can enter the cell.

Plumeria need 17 elements for normal growth. Carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen are found in air and water.
Nitrogen, potassium, magnesium, calcium, phosphorus, and sulfur are found in the soil and are used in relatively large amounts by the plant and are called macronutrients. There are eight other elements that are used in much smaller amounts; these are called micronutrients or trace elements. The micronutrients, which are found in the soil, are iron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, boron, copper, cobalt, and chlorine. All 17 elements, both macronutrients and micronutrients, are essential for plant growth.

Fertilizer Nutrients

Plumeria need to be fertilized because most soil does not provide the essential nutrients required for optimum growth. Even if you are lucky enough to start with a great soil mix, as your plumeria grow, they absorb nutrients and leave the soil less fertile. Remember those beautiful blooms and leaves you grew last year? It took nutrients from the soil to build those plant tissues. By fertilizing your plumeria, you replenish lost nutrients and ensure that this year’s plumeria have the food they need to flourish.

There are six primary nutrients that plants require. Plants get the first three (carbon, hydrogen and oxygen) from air and water. The other three are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

Nitrogen helps plumeria make the proteins they need to produce new tissues. In nature, nitrogen is often in short supply so plumeria have evolved to take up as much nitrogen as possible, even if it means not taking up other necessary elements. If too much nitrogen is available, the plumeria may grow abundant foliage but not produce flowers or may grow tall and lanky. Growth could be stunted because the plumeria isn’t absorbing enough of the other elements it needs.

Phosphorus stimulates root growth, helps the plant set buds and flowers, improves vitality and increases seed size. It does this by helping transfer energy from one part of the plumeria to another. To absorb phosphorus, most plumeria require a soil pH of approximately 6.5 to 6.8. Organic matter and the activity of soil organisms also increase the availability of phosphorus. Plumeria only require a small amount of Phosphorus, using high phosphorus fertilizers when you don’t need it could cause serious problems.

The buildup of phosphorus can cause plumeria to grow poorly and even die. Excessive soil phosphorus reduces the plant’s ability to take up required micronutrients, particularly iron and zinc, even when soil tests show there are adequate amounts of those nutrients in the soil.
Phosphorus buildup is caused by excessive use of inorganic fertilizer or the use of composts and manures high in phosphorus. High soil phosphorus levels also can threaten streams, rivers, lakes and oceans. 

There are three additional nutrients that plumeria need, but in much smaller amounts: 

Potassium: Unlike nitrogen and phosphorus, potassium is not used in the structural synthesis of bio-chemically important molecules. Potassium is found within the plant cell solution and is used for maintaining the turgor pressure of the cell (meaning it keeps the plant from wilting). In addition, potassium plays a role in the proper functioning of stomata (cells located on the bottom of the leaf that open and close to allow water vapor and waste gases to escape) and acts as an enzyme activator.

Calcium is used by plumeria in cell membranes, at their growing points and to neutralize toxic materials. Calcium, in the form of calcium pectate, is responsible for holding together the cell walls of plants. In addition, calcium improves soil structure and helps bind organic and inorganic particles together. When calcium is deficient, new tissue such as root tips, young leaves, and shoot tips often exhibit distorted growth from improper cell wall formation. Calcium is also used in activating certain enzymes and to send signals that coordinate certain cellular activities.

Magnesium is necessary to both plumeria growth and health. It is involved in several different processes, including photosynthesis, which nearly all living organisms are dependent on. It is the only metallic component of chlorophyll. Without it, plumeria can’t process sunlight.Magnesium (Mg), along with calcium and sulfur, is one of the three secondary nutrients required by plants for normal, healthy growth. Don’t be confused by the term “secondary” as it refers to the quantity and not the importance of a nutrient. A lack of a secondary nutrient is just as detrimental to plant growth as a deficiency of any one of the three primary nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) or a deficiency of micronutrients (iron, manganese, boron, zinc, copper and molybdenum). Furthermore, in some plants, the tissue concentration of magnesium is comparable to that of phosphorus, a primary nutrient.

The most important role of magnesium is as the central atom in the chlorophyll molecule. Chlorophyll is the pigment that gives plants their green color and carries out the process of photosynthesis. It also aids in the activation of many plant enzymes needed for growth and contributes to protein synthesis.

Sulphur along with calcium and magnesium, is one of the three secondary nutrients required by plumeria for normal, healthy growth. A deficiency in a secondary nutrient is just as detrimental as a deficiency in nitrogen, phosphorus or potassium. Sulfur is often overlooked and underappreciated in importance. There is a significant balance between nitrogen and sulfur. Without enough sulfur, plumeria cannot efficiently use nitrogen and other nutrients to reach their full potential.

Plants acquire sulfur from the growing medium as sulfate. Sulfate is readily soluble and subject to loss by leaching. Plumeria metabolism reduces sulfate and sulfur dioxide to forms that can be used to build organic molecules. Sulfur is a vital part of all plant proteins, and certain plant hormones. It is also used in the formation of certain oils and volatile compounds found in the onion and garlic family.

Finally, there are eight elements that plumeria need in tiny amounts. These are called micronutrients and include boron, chlorine, copper, cobaltironmanganese, molybdenum, and zinc.

Healthy soil that is high in organic matter usually contains adequate amounts of each of these micronutrients.

Organic vs. Synthetic

Do plumeria really care where they get their nutrients? Yes, because organic and synthetic fertilizers provide nutrients in different ways. Organic fertilizers are made from naturally occurring mineral deposits and organic material, such as bone or plant meal or composted manure. Synthetic fertilizers are made by chemically processing raw materials.

In general, the nutrients in organic fertilizers are not water-soluble and are released to the plumeria slowly over a period of months or even years. For this reason, organic fertilizers are best applied in the fall so the nutrients will be available in the spring. These organic fertilizers stimulate beneficial soil microorganisms and improve the structure of the soil. Soil microbes play an important role in converting organic fertilizers into soluble nutrients that can be absorbed by your plumeria. In most cases, organic fertilizers and compost will provide all the secondary and micronutrients your plumeria need.

Synthetic fertilizers are water-soluble and can be taken up by the plumeria almost immediately. In fact applying too much synthetic fertilizer can “burn” foliage and damage your plumeria. Synthetic fertilizers give plumeria a quick boost but do little to improve soil texture, stimulate soil life, or improve your soil’s long-term fertility. Because synthetic fertilizers are highly water-soluble, they can also leach out into streams and ponds. Synthetic fertilizers do have some advantages in early spring. Because they are water-soluble, they are available to plumeria even when the soil is still cold and soil microbes are inactive. For this reason, some organically-based fertilizers, such as PHC All-Purpose Fertilizer, also contain small amounts of synthetic fertilizers to ensure the availability of nutrients.

For the long-term health of your garden, feeding your plumeria by building the soil with organic fertilizers and compost is best. This will give you soil that is rich in organic matter and teeming with microbial life.

Foliar Feeding?

Plumeria can absorb nutrients eight to 20 times more efficiently through their leaf surfaces than through their roots. As a result, spraying foliage with liquid nutrients can produce remarkable yields. For best results, spray plants during their critical growth stages such as transplanting time and blooming time.

What About pH?

Even if proper nutrients are present in the soil, some nutrients cannot be absorbed by plumeria if the soil pH is too high or too low. For most plumeria, soil pH should be between 6.0 and 7.0. A soil test will measure the pH of your soil. You can send a sample to a lab (contact your local extension service for a low-cost kit) or buy a home kit and do it yourself. Lime or wood ash can be used to raise pH; sulfur or aluminum sulfate can lower pH. Keep in mind that it’s best to raise or lower soil pH slowly over the course of a year or two. Dramatic adjustments can result in the opposite extreme, which may be worse than what you started with. Once again, a helpful solution is to apply compost. Compost moderates soil pH and is one of the best ways to maintain the 6.5 ideal.

Slow-release, granular Excalibur 11-11-13 or similar fertilizer gives your plumeria all the nutrients they need, including plenty of phosphorus for big, abundant flowers. For a healthy start, mix a handful into the soil at transplant time and at the beginning of your growing season.

How to Choose a Fertilizer

In most cases, an all-purpose, 11-11-13 fertilizer with micronutrients such as Excalibur will provide the nutrients all plumeria need for healthy growth. If a soil test reveals certain nutrient deficiencies, or if you want to tailor your fertilizer to the needs of particular plumeria, you can select a special formulation. What you choose will depend on your soil and what you are growing.

The three numbers that you see on a fertilizer label, such as 11-11-13, tell you what proportion of each macronutrient the fertilizer contains. The first number is always nitrogen (N), the second is phosphorus (P) and the third is potassium (K). This “N-P-K” ratio reflects the available nutrients —by weight—contained in that fertilizer. For example, if a 100-pound bag of fertilizer has an N-P-K ratio of 11-11-13, it contains 11 pounds of nitrate, 11 pounds of phosphate (which contains phosphorus), 13 pounds of potash (which contains potassium) and 84 pounds of filler.

Note that the N-P-K ratio of organic fertilizers is typically lower than that of a synthetic fertilizer. This is because by law, the ratio can only express nutrients that are immediately available. Most organic fertilizers contain slow-release nutrients that will become available over time. They also contain many trace elements that might not be supplied by synthetic fertilizers.

To build the long-term health and fertility of your soil, we recommend using granular slow release fertilizers with micronutrients. Supplemented with a water-soluble fertilizer ensures that your plants have the nutrients they need when they’re in active growth.