Germinating Seeds & Growing Seedlings with Hydroponics

Germinating Seeds & Growing Seedlings in water saturated plugs using Hydroponics

First off, I have to admit I’m not a fan for water rooting for plumeria cuttings.

Usually, I started plumeria seeds in FlexiPlugs in a flat tray without drain holes and filled with water for the first day or so. Then I transfer the FCN FlexiPlug tray to a flat tray with drainage holes. I then keep the plugs moist by watering several times a day. This year, by accident I started using flat trays without drainage holes, planted my seeds, and the next day I had an issue with my health that lasted a week or so. When I was up to check on my new seedlings, I realized they were still in the flat trays without holes, and because we had rain almost every day, the trays were full of water.

To my surprise, all the seedlings looked great, better than the ones I’m growing without saturating the plugs. So, I started researching and learning as much as possible about hydroponics. I’ve was intrigued by the explosion of new products coming out for the cannabis industry. Lighting technology, grow room automation, soil amendments and grow nutrients are seeing significant overhauls. From my research, I’ve decided to test a few products from Advanced Nutrients without adding any NPK.

Projects:

  1. Germination Plumeria Seeds
    1. Germinating Plumeria seeds in water saturated plugs. (control)
    2. Germinating Plumeria seeds in water soaked plugs with corrected pH.
  2. Growing Plumeria Seedlings
    1. Growing Plumeria seedlings in water saturated plugs. (control)
    2. Growing Plumeria Seedlings in water with corrected ph, Vitazyme, and Root Activator. 

I am adding nutrients with corrected pH technology to keep the pH around 7.0 or below.

The seedling will be grown in the water mix until transplanted into the soil. It is estimated to be 2-3 months, depending on the production of roots. Each cultivar is a little different.

Starting 2/2019

I’ve started a couple of new experiments and of course with a control group: I’ll be trying out some new products to correct the pH, with my previously proven germination and growing methods to hopefully improve both.

Seeds will be started and grow for 2-3 months in 2″x 3″ FCN FlexiPlugs saturated in nutrients until transplanted into soil.

Materials Needed:
CONTROL GROUP: Plumeria Seeds, 2” x 3” FCN FlexiPlugs and flat trays without drain holes, Vitazyme, Carl Pool’s Root ActivatorMetal Labels or plastic plant markers and permanent felt tip marker. And of course Excalibur VI.

EXPERIMENT 1: Plumeria Seeds, 2” x 3” FCN FlexiPlugs and flat trays without drain holes, Vitazyme, Carl Pool’s Root Activator, correct pH, BioblastMetal Labels or plastic plant markers and permanent felt tip marker. Pro-Mix BX with Mycorrhizae and of course Excalibur VI.

EXPERIMENT 2: Plumeria Seeds, 2” x 3” FCN FlexiPlugs and flat trays without drain holes, pH Perfect Grow, Micro Additive. Metal Labels or plastic plant markers and permanent felt tip marker. Pro-Mix BX with Mycorrhizae and of course Excalibur VI

EXPERIMENT 3: Plumeria Seeds, 2” x 3” FCN FlexiPlugs and flat trays without drain holes, Vitazyme, Carl Pool’s Root Activator, correct pH, Bioblast, pH Perfect Grow, Micro Additive. Metal Labels or plastic plant markers and permanent felt tip marker. Pro-Mix BX with Mycorrhizae and of course Excalibur VI.

The goal is to determine benefits to seed germination and seedling growth by correcting the pH with automated nutrients. Integrating into from my existing germination and growing methods to find a better way to keep the pH correct. 

I plan on monitoring and controlling the pH levels, keeping the plugs saturated with water and nutrients. Water and Ambient Temperature may need to be controlled with heat mats if it gets too cold. (Too cold being below 40 degrees at night, to be controlled by heating mats and possibly covers) Why is pH so important?

  • If necessary, the water temperature will be controlled by heating mates under the plug trays. The ideal water temperature should be around 85 to 90 degrees. If it gets too cold (below 40 degrees at night), the heating mats and possibly covers will be used.
  • PH products will hopefully control the pH levels, but I will manually adjust if necessary. The pH, I prefer is between 6.7-7.0 
  • The weather will control ambient Temperature unless I decide to put a cover on the trays. Nighttime temps are expected to be in the 60s and 70s during Springtime. (I’m in Zone 10b)
  • Saturation of the plugs will start by filling the tray full and after germination reduced to 1/2 full. The design of the plugs allows the moisture to be wicked up through the plugs while allowing ample airflow and maintaining air pockets.

Nutrients & Fertilizing

From the beginning, I correct the pH, use Root Activator and Vitazyme to soak the plugs in and drench the soil when I transplant into pots. When I see 3-4 real leaves, I start fertilizing with Bioblast at 1/2 strength for the first month then full strength every two weeks.

When I transplant into pots, I add Excalibur VI at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 gal pot and drench the soil with Root Activator and Vitazyme.

Soil

For the soil, I prefer to use Pro-Mix BX with Mycorrhizae for many years for my seedlings, and the Mycorrhizae is very beneficial to new seedlings.

We also have soil custom mixed.

  • Canadian peat: partially decomposed organic matter. It decays slowly and aids in aeration and drainage. It also lowers media ph.
  • Sand: a non-organic component of media. It provides aeration and structure to media and weight; therefore the particle size is the critical factor in selection. We recommend sharp sand (builders’ sand).
  • Florida peat: partially decomposed organic matter. It decomposes slowly and aids in aeration and drainage. It also lowers media ph.
  • Cyprus Mulch: organic material is providing water retention and structure.
  • Cyprus Sawdust: organic material is providing water retention and structure.
  • Soil conditioner: contains processed pine bark, limestone, and gypsum. This substance adds organic matter to the soil, helping retain moisture.
  • Dolomite: a soil amendment used to slowly raise the ph.

Getting started:

  • Of course select as fresh as possible quality plumeria seeds. I only grow named cultivars, and I figure if I’m going to spend the time and money, I want my best chances of getting a quality plumeria. Even if you are growing seedlings for grafting rootstock is better if you know the cultivar.
  • Use 2″x 3″ FCN FlexiPlugs, a 10″x 20″ 36 compartment plug tray, and a 10″x 20″ flat tray without holes to hold the plug tray.
  • Place the plug tray in the flat tray.
  • Place 36 plugs in the plug tray.
  • Mix a gallon of water and a pH correction product.
  • Fill the flat tray all the way full, with the mix. Allow the plugs to soak up as much of the mix as possible and keep adding mix until the level is stable at 3/4 full to full. 
  • Use a case knife or similar to place a slice into each plug, and the slice should be about 2″ deep and 1/2″ wide.
  • Plant seeds directly into the saturated plugs, with the flag facing up.
    • If you are not sure about the viability of your seeds, then pre-soak by placing them in a bowl full of water for about 4 hours. You can also use the paper towel method to get them started. Either way, plant the seed in the plug as soon as you see they have plumped up.
  • Check the pH, but the pH product should correct the pH, so the seeds have a better chance of germinating and roots should be able to absorb more nutrients.
    • For me, the reason for the pH correction is our water comes from a well and is near 8.0. It may not be as necessary if your water is around 6.7 – 7.0
    • The high pH doesn’t seem to affect our mature plumeria in soil much but growing seedling in saturated plugs with a high pH will make it more difficult for the seedling to absorb nutrients, especially the micro-nutrients.
  • If needed, I’m planning on using heating mats, placing the heating mats in a location that get full sun. Day time air temps will vary as it cools over winter. If needed, I use 25′ commercial mats. Be sure to follow manufacturer recommendations and safety precautions when using Heating Mats.
    • The reason I place in full sun right away is mainly for the heat. All seeds need to germinate is moisture and warmth, they do not need light to germinate. As soon as you see the green of the seed leaves, the seed  The full sun and airflow lessen the chance of damping off. Damping off typically occurs when seedlings are grown in cool or too moist conditions it further increases poor soil drainage and poor airflow.
  • Add the nutrient mix as needed to keep the level about 3/4 full to full until the seeds germinate then about 1/2 full after that. It doesn’t hurt to allow the mix to go down as long as the plugs do not dry out. The plugs will act as a wick and keep ample air pockets.
  • Every month it’s a good idea, to rinse the flat tray to get rid of any contaminants that may have built up.

Notes: Cotyledon or the seed leaf is involved in the storage of food reserves. In plumeria, the seed leaf usually exists in pairs and show above the ground and do perform photosynthesis, a function similar to a real leaf. A new seedling can and will take up nutrients even while seeds leaves are still present. Soaking the plugs with a nutrient mix will assure the seedlings get all the nutrients they need when they are required.

Plants make sugars by absorbing carbon dioxide (CO2) from the atmosphere through small pores in their leaves called stomata. However, when stomata open, water is lost to the atmosphere at a prolific rate relative to the small amount of CO2 absorbed; across plant species, losing an average of 400 water molecules for each CO2 molecule gained. The balance between transpiration and photosynthesis forms an essential compromise in the existence of plants, and the stomata must remain open to build sugars but risk dehydration in the process. Windy days can contribute to dehydration — the FlexiPlugs aid in the balance of water and carbon dioxide to the plants.

When most people think of hydroponics, they think of plants grown with their roots suspended near or directly into the water with no growing medium, one type of hydroponic gardening known as N.F.T. (nutrient film technique). There are several variations of N.F.T. used around the world and it is a very popular method of growing hydroponically. What most people don’t realize is that there are countless methods and variations of hydroponic gardening.

Why I’m Trying Hydroponics?

If you give a plumeria precisely what it needs, when it needs it, in the amount that it needs, the plant will be as healthy as is genetically possible. I used this premise when developing Excalibur Plumeria Fertilizers. With hydroponics this is an easy task, in the soil it is far more difficult.

With this hydroponic experiment, the plumeria seeds germinate and the seedlings grown in FlexiPlugs. FlexiPlugs are created by blending the highest quality peat with other organics and a foamed binder. The result is a stabilized propagation medium that promotes faster rooting for seedlings while providing the consistent moisture needed for seed germination. FlixiPlugs are pH balanced and contain micronutrients and active biologicals providing the necessary elements to promote healthy seed germination, root growth, and youthful plant vigor. I also add additional nutrients and fertilizers to my seedlings as soon as they can use photosynthesis allowing the seedlings to uptake its food at an early stage with minimal effort as opposed to the soil where the roots must search out the nutrients and extract them. Correct even when using rich, organic soil and top of the line nutrients. The energy expended by the roots in this process is energy better spent on growth.

The growing medium is the material in which the roots of the plant are growing, in this case for the first few months it’s FlexiPlugs. Additional nutrition comes from nutrient solutions (water and fertilizer combined). If you wish, you can easily control everything the plants receive. The strength and pH of the nutrient solution are easy to adjust so that the plants receive just the right amount of food. The watering/feeding cycles can be controlled by an inexpensive timer so that the plants get watered on a schedule, as needed.

2-20-2018 Updates – Planting Plumeria Seeds

Pre-soaking Plumeria Seeds
Pre-soaking Plumeria Seeds for 2 hours

I started plugs and seeds soaking on 2-16-2018 and so far I’ve planted a total of 216 seeds consisting of  Jackie, Metallica, Jack’s Purple, Bonnie Fox, Salmon Jack, and others. All seeds planted so far are grown hoping for new cultivars.

 

Materials Needed:
Plumeria Seeds, something to soak the seeds in, 2” x 3” Gro-Tech FlexiPlugs and trays, Vitazyme, Carl Pool’s Root ActivatorPro-Mix BX MycorrhizaeMetal Labels or plastic plant markers and permanent felt tip marker.

Each year I try to verify the products and methods by experimenting with variations on last years proven methods. This year I’m comparing the use of FlexiPlugs and Pro-Mix as starter methods. I also use a control tray from what I determined to be the best method from last year.

  • I put 72 seeds in plug trays filled with Pro-Mix and the rest in trays filled with FlexiPlugs.
    • The reason I’m trying the Pro-Mix is to see if the Mycorrhizae makes a difference on newly planted seeds and young seedling.

      Pre-soaked Flexi Plugs without seeds
      Pre-soaked Flexi Plugs without seeds
  • I pre-soaked older 2016 seeds for two hours – four hours. The seeds that didn’t plump up and felt paper think, I discarded.
    • The reason is to test the viability of the seeds and enhance germination time.
  • I pre-soaked the plugs for about 1 hour or longer until the plugs are completely saturated. I use a mix of 1 oz Vitazyme, 2 oz Root Activator per gallon of water.
    • The reason I use Vitazyme is that it is a biostimulant that fosters plant growth and development throughout the seedlings life cycle from seed germination to plant maturity in a number of ways.
    • The reason I use Root Activator is that it is a 100% natural product which safely promotes regeneration of roots through increased elongation rates. Root Activator stimulates fast root growth, reduces transplant shock, and hastens plant establishment. Also, the root activators are designed to attach to the soil and not wash out as easily as root stimulators.

      Seeds in Pro-Mix
      Seeds in Pro-Mix
  • The remaining seeds were placed directly in the plugs.
    • The reason I place them in the plugs without soaking is they all appear to be viable and by pre-soaking the plugs I have provided plenty of moisture to germinate the seeds.
  •  After planting the seeds, each tray was soaked overnight in a mix of 1 oz Vitazyme, 2 oz Root Activator and 10 drops of Merlin’s Magic Potion per gallon of water. Allowing the plugs and seeds to be saturated with the mix.
  • Then I placed the trays in a location that gets about 7 hours of full sun. Day time times here are now in the mid to upper 80s and nighttime temps are in the low 70s.
    • The reason I place in full sun right away is mainly for the heat. All a seed needs to germinate is moisture and warmth. The full sun and air flow lessen the chance of damping off. Damping off typically occurs when a seed is planted in cool, wet soil and is further increased by poor soil drainage and poor air flow.
  • Seeds in Plugs
    Seeds in Plugs

    I water three to four time a day, keeping the seedling mix and plugs very moist. I have to be careful and watch the Pro-Mix, I expect it to hold more moisture than the plugs.

Note: Cotyledon or the seed leaf is involved in the storage of food reserves. In plumeria, the seed leaf exists in pairs and show above the ground and perform photosynthesis, a function similar to a true leaf. A new seedling can and will take up nutrients even while seeds leaves are still present. I soak the soil and plugs to be sure nutrients are available as soon as needed.

2-20-2018 Updates – Planting Plumeria Seeds

2-2-2018 – Planting Seeds Project Update

2-2-2018 Update, Starting with the Basic Project Details.

Plumeria Seed Pod ready for plantingPlanting seed weather in Homestead looks good enough to start my seed planting and seedling projects. The forecast says the lows are going to be around 60 and the highs around 80 for the next two weeks. This is the earliest I’ve planted plumeria seeds outdoors. They will be in full sun open to the weather. It will be interesting to see how they do. I expect them to take longer than my normal to germinate. I will be planting some more around March 1, to see if there are differences. 

Here is the updated list of seeds I’m planning on planting. The ones in bold, I waiting on fresh pods to open. I always try to plant all the seeds in a pod, if possible.

Gina, Hope, Jackie, Metallica, Super Round (J115), Jack’s Purple, Dwarf Singapore Pink, Mardi Gras, Aztec Gold, Waimea, Bonnie Fox, Raspberry Sundae, Salmon Jack….so far!

Materials Needed:
Plumeria Seeds, something to soak the seeds in, 2” x 3” Gro-Tech FlexiPlugs and trays, Vitazyme, Carl Pool’s Root Activator, Bioblast 7-7-7, Pro-Mix BX Mycorrhizae, Excalibur VI 11-11-13, Metal Labels or plastic plant markers and permanent felt tip marker.

OK, the bench cleared off, containers and trays cleaned, plugs on to soak and organized the materials and products I use to germinate the seedlings. The plant is to start soaking seeds on Saturday.

I’ve decided to try several methods to see if they make any difference and to give you an idea which will work for you.

Basic Planned Regimen for 2018 Seed Projects –  substituting Pro-Mix BX Mycorrhizae mix for FlexiPlugs

The trays I use have 36 compartments, so most of the trays will have 36 seeds in each with 2″ x 3″ compartments. I will be comparing germination and growth differences between the FlexiPlugs and using ProMix soil.

Phase I – Soaking the Seeds before Planting

Plumeria seeds need moisture and warmth to germinate. They do not require light to germinate.

  1. First Dip seeds in a mix of Vitazyme and warm (not hot) water and allow to dry before proceeding.
  2. Soak seeds in warm water until plump, about 2-4 hours, overnight is ok. A good rule of thumb: Seeds that sink after absorbing water are usually viable. Seeds that float are normally not viable. Soaking seeds gives them a head start and a good way to checks viability.
  3. I sometimes use the paper towel method for germination.
    1. Place the seeds between two paper towels, wet the towels, put in a warm place, keep the towels moist and do not let them dry out. When you see roots it is time to plant the seed. 
      Caution: It’s important you do not continue to soak after roots start showing. They should be put in soil or plugs at that point. Waiting will only increase the chances of damaging the roots. Do not allow the seeds to dry out. 

Phase II – Soaking and Preparing the Plugs and ProMix.

  • Soaking Plugs: Materials: 2″ x 3″ FlexiPlugs, 36 holes Plug Tray for 2″ x 3″ Plugs, Two flat trays to hold the FlexiPlug trays. (one with drainage and one without), Vitazyme and Root Activator.
    • Soak plugs in Vitazyme (1 oz. per Gal) and Root Activator (2 oz. per gal) Soak for 1 to 2 hours.
    • Place the plugs in the trays, then plant the seeds in the FlexiPlugs with the flags and deep enough to cover the body of the seed with the flag sticking up and above the soil and water well.
    • Place ProMix soil in the trays and gently tamp until firm, plant the seeds in the ProMix with the flags and deep enough to cover the body of the seed with the flag sticking up and above the soil.
    • Water well with leftover Vitazyme and Root Activator mix. 
  • Drenching the Soil: Materials: ProMix, Same 36 holes Plug Tray used for 2″ x 3″ Plugs, Vitazyme and Root Activator.
    Because the 2″ x 3″ plugs aren’t readily available, I’ve decided to test using the ProMix in the Plug Tray instead of the plugs.
     

    • Fill the plug tray with ProMix soil and gently tamp until firm
    • Fill a Plug Tray flat without out holes about 2/3 full with Vitazyme (1 oz. per Gal) and Root Activator (2 oz. per gal) 
    • Place the Plug Tray filled with ProMix into the tray without drain holes. Allow to Soak for 1 hour or so.
    • Lift the Plug tray and allow to drain some, then place the tray with the plugs in a tray flat that has holds.
    • Plant the seeds in the ProMix soil deep enough to cover the body of the seed with the flag sticking out above the soil.
    • Water well with leftover Vitazyme and Root Activator mix. 
  • Using 10″ x 16″ x 3″ Flat Trays: Materials: Seeds, Seedling soil mix, Plug Tray, Vitazyme and Root Activator.
    • Fill a flat tray with good drain holes or slots about 2/3 full of good seedling soil.
    • Water well with Vitazyme (1 oz. per Gal) and Root Activator (2 oz. per gal) 

Phase III – Planting the Seeds

  • Labeling Trays: Before you start planting your seeds be sure to prepare labels and be sure to label every group of seeds with a minimum of the date and cultivar. Create a label for each individual seedling you are planting. 
  • Growing plumeria from seeds for new cultivars and/or rootstock.
    • Growing Seeds For New Cultivars: Materials: Seeds, 2″ x 3″ FlexiPlugs, Plug Tray, Vitazyme and Root Activator.
    • Plant the seeds in ProMix soil deep enough to cover the body of the seed with the flag sticking out above the soil.
    • Water well with leftover Vitazyme and Root Activator mix. 
  • Growing Seeds for Rootstock: Materials: Seeds, Seedling soil mix, Plug Tray, Vitazyme and Root Activator. 
    • Using the flat tray from above, place the seeds horizontal (flat) on the soil and cover with an additional 1/2″ or so of soil.
    • Water well with a Vitazyme and Root Activator mix.

Place in a sunny location, If your nighttime average 60 degrees or above at night you are safe to put the seeds outside. Seeds will germinate and grow best in Springtime and early Summer. Warmer weather helps germination, but the soil over 95 degrees could slow down germination. `The hotter the weather to more often they will need watering.  I think full sun is the reason I’ve had almost no problems with damping off or seedling rot. Caution: In hot regions, you may need some shade

Watering your seeds

  • Keep plugs very moist. 2-3 times a day. The FlexiPlugs are foam injected peat plugs, that have proven to provide great air circulation even when wet and the plumeria seeds grow great. Although decomposition takes much longer than normal plugs, I feel it is worth the trade-off. 
  • For the ProMix in plug trays and the flats, water twice a day to keep the soil moist. Do not allow the soil to dry out.

Seed Germination – your seeds will germinate in 5-15 days, depending on the cultivar, the method used and the growing conditions.

Phase IV – Young Seedlings

After Germination, the seeds will put out roots, the seed leaves (Cotyledon) will break the surface and the seed coat will fall off and true leaves with start growing.

The seed leaves (Cotyledon) contain nutrients to help keep seedling alive until the roots can grow enough to start providing nutrients and until the real leaves have grown to perform photosynthesis to process the nutrients. 

After 3 or 4 real leaves have grown, foliar feed with Bioblast (1 tablespoon per gal). Remember when the seed leaves go away the seedling will need a source of nutrients. Caution: Apply only Early or Late in the day, not in strong sunlight, it may burn the leaves.

Phase V – Transplanting

Materials: ProMix or Seedling soil mix, 2 gal pots, 7 1/2 gal squat pots. Vitazyme and Root Activator, Excalibur and a Moisture Meter

Create a label for each seedling and be careful to label correctly with a minimum or the date planted and cultivar. We put the letter “S” on the tag to clearly indicate it is a seedling.

When you see several roots coming out the bottom and/or sides of the plug or tray it’s time to transplant. 

When transplanting I fertilize with Excalibur IX 11-11-13 (3 tablespoons for 2  pot and 5 tablespoons for the 7 1/2 gal pots) Mix in top 1” of soil to cover fertilizer granules. I suggest 9 months because you can apply again in 9 months providing nutrients all year long. Caution: If you can’t keep the seedling growing all year long, or depending on your growing season, it may be better to use Excalibur IV and apply twice a year.

Be sure the Plugs are completely covered by soil, this will help them to decompose and prevent premature drying out.

This year, I plan on transplanting the 2″ x 3″ plugs to 2 gals and 7 1/2 gal squat pots. I’m expecting the 7 1/2 gal pots may help the growth rate.

Soil mixtures:

  • I’m using Pro-Mix BX Mycorrhizae for the soil mix for growing seedlings for new cultivars.
  • A good seedling mix is good for growing rootstock.

Water well after transplanting with a mix of Vitazyme and Root Activator.

Phase VI – Extended Fertilizing and Care

Materials: Excalibur VI or IX, BioBlast and a Moisture Meter

Foliar feed every two weeks with a mix of BioBlast (1 tablespoon to 1 gal of water) and Vitazyme (2 tablespoons to 1 gal of water), early or late in the evening.

If possible keep seedlings growing for the first year by keeping in a warm, sunny location. Additional Lighting may be needed.

Water as needed, allow the pot to almost dry out and water well making sure all the soil is evenly watered. Do not allow to bet completely dry. A moisture meter is always a good tool to have.

1-27-2018 Updates – Seed & Seedling Projects

January 27th, 2018

Seed selection and planting, it’s time to start working on the details. My planned start date, Feb 1st is just around the corner.

Here is the list of seeds, Gina, Hope, Heirloom, Jackie, Metallica, Super Round (J115), Jack’s Purple, Dwarf Singapore Pink, Mardi Gras, Aztec Gold, Waimea, Bonnie Fox, Raspberry Sundae….so far!

Products Needed:
Plumeria Seeds, something to soak the seeds in, 2” x 3” Gro-Tech FlexiPlugs and trays, Vitazyme, Carl Pool’s Root Activator, Bioblast 7-7-7, Pro-Mix BX Mycorrhizae, Excalibur VI 11-11-13, Metal Labels or plastic plant markers and permanent felt tip marker. Hydrogen Peroxide and Merlin’s Potion for new experiments. 

2018 Seed & Seedling Projects

Basic Planned Regimen for 2018 Seed Projects

  1. Dip seeds in a mix of Vitazyme and warm (not hot) water. Caution: Allow to dry before proceeding.
  2. Soak seeds in warm water until plump. A good rule of thumb: Seeds that sink after absorbing water are usually viable. Seeds that float are normally not viable. Gives them a head start and a good way to checks viability. Caution: It’s important you do not continue to soak after you see the roots starting. They should be put in soil or plugs at that point. Waiting will only increase the chances of damaging the roots.
  3. Soak plugs in Vitazyme (1 oz. per Gal) and Root Activator (2 oz. per gal) Soak for 1 to 2 hours. (New Experiment: soak in 1 oz of hydrogen peroxide per 1 gal.) 
  4. Place seeds in plugs with the flags and deep enough to cover the body of the seed with the flag sticking up and above the soil and water well. Plumeria seeds will also germinate by placing them on the side and covering with 1/2″ of so of soil.
  5. Place in sunny location, I think full sun is the reason I’ve had almost no problems with damping off or seedling rot. Caution: In hot regions you may need some shade
  6. Water often to keep plugs very moist. 2-3 times a day. The FlexiPlugs are foam injected peat plugs, that have proven to provide great air circulation even when wet and the plumeria seeds grow great. Although decomposition takes much longer than normal plugs, I feel it is worth the trade off. Caution: In areas where you sun will burn leaves, you may have to only water well in morning and evening.
  7. Start Foliar feeding with Bioblast (1 tablespoon per gal) as soon as they all have an average of 3-4 leaves. Remember when the seed leaves go away the seedling will need nutrients from the soil or fertilizer. Caution: Apply only Early or Late in the day, not in strong sunlight, it may burn the leaves.
  8. When you see several roots coming out the bottom and or sides of the plug transplant to 1 gal pot. Caution: Be sure the Plugs are complete covered by soil, this will help the decomposing and prevent premature drying out. (New Experiment: I plan on transplanting the 2″x3″ plugs to a 7.5 gal squat pots)
  9. I suggest using Pro-Mix BX Mycorrhizae for your soil mix.
  10. Fertilize with Excalibur IX 11-11-13 (1 tablespoon per gal pot) Mix in top 1” of soil to cover fertilizer granules and water well. I suggest 9 month because you can apply again in 9 months providing nutrients all year long. Caution: If you can’t keep the seedling growing all year long, It may be better to use Excalibur IX at the beginning of the growing season.
  11. If possible keep seedlings growing for the first year by keeping in a warm, sunny location. Additional Lighting may be needed.
  12. Water as needed, allow pot to almost dry out and water well making sure all the soil is evenly watered. A moisture meter is always a good tool to have.

2018 Planned Experiment 1 – (Hydrogen Peroxide)

  1. Dip seeds in a mix of Vitazyme, Hydrogen Peroxide and warm (not hot) water. Caution: Allow to dry before proceeding. Optional will dip some and not dip some.
  2. Soak seeds in warm water and Hydrogen Peroxide until plump. (1 oz of hydrogen peroxide to 1 gal, final mix to be determined) A good rule of thumb: Seeds that sink after absorbing water are usually viable. Seeds that float are normally not viable. Gives them a head start and a good way to checks viability.
  3. Soak plugs in Vitazyme (1 oz. per Gal), Root Activator (2 oz. per gal) and Hydrogen Peroxide (1 oz to 1 gal) Soak for 1 to 2 hours. 
  4. Place seeds in plugs with the flags and deep enough to cover the body of the seed with the flag sticking up and above the soil and water well.
  5. Place in sunny location, I think full sun is the reason I’ve had almost no problems with damping off or seedling rot. 
  6. Water often to keep plugs very moist. 2-3 times a day work for me.
  7. Start foliar feeding with Bioblast (1 tablespoon per gal) as soon as they all have an average of 3-4 leaves. Remember when the seed leaves go away the seedling will need nutrients from the soil or fertilizer. 
  8. When you see several roots coming out the bottom and or sides of the plug transplanting the 2″x3″ plugs directly into 7.5 gal squat pots and 3 gal pot.
  9. Soil is Pro-Mix BX Mycorrhizae or a mix with Florida Colors soil and Pro-Mix Mycorrhizae. Details of the mix coming at time of transplanting.
  10. When transplanting, fertilize with Excalibur VI 11-11-13 (1 teaspoon per gal pot) Mix in top few inches of soil, it is best to completely cover fertilizer granules and water well. I use 6 month I keep seedling growing year around and I apply again in 6 months providing nutrients all year long.
  11. If possible keep seedlings growing for the first year by keeping in a warm and in a sunny location. Additional Lighting may be needed.
  12. Water as needed, allow pot to almost dry out and water well making sure all the soil is evenly watered. A moisture meter is always a good tool to have.

2018 Planned Experiment 2 – (Merlin’s Magic Potion – MMP)

  1. Dip seeds in mix of Merlin’s Magic Potion and warm water and allow to dry before proceeding.
  2. Soak seeds in warm water and Hydrogen Peroxide until plump. (1 oz of hydrogen peroxide to 1 gal)
  3. Soak plugs in Merlin’s Magic Potion (2 oz per gal) Soak for 1 to 2 hours. 
  4. Place seeds in plugs with the flags and deep enough to cover the body of the seed with the flag sticking up and above the soil and water well.
  5. Place in sunny location, I think full sun is the reason I’ve had almost no problems with damping off or seedling rot. 
  6. Water often to keep plugs very moist. 2-3 times a day has worked for me.
  7. Start foliar feeding with Bioblast (1 tablespoon per gal) as soon as they all have an average of 3-4 leaves. Remember when the seed leaves go away the seedling will need nutrients from the soil or fertilizer. Foliar feed every two weeks (1 oz to 1 gal of water) 
  8. After two weeks or so, but before transplanting into pots, soak plugs with seeds in a mix of Merlin’s Magic Potion and water. (1 oz to 1 gal of water)
  9. When you see several roots coming out the bottom and or sides of the plug transplanting some of the 2″x3″ plugs directly into 7.5 gal squat pots and some in 2-3 gal pot.
  10. Before transplanting into pots, soak plugs with seeds in a mix of Merlin’s Magic Potion and water. (1 oz to 1 gal of water)
  11. Soil is Pro-Mix BX Mycorrhizae or a mix with Florida Colors soil and Pro-Mix Mycorrhizae. Details of the mix coming at time of transplanting.
  12. When transplanting, fertilize with Excalibur VI 11-11-13 (1 teaspoon per gal pot) Mix in top few inches of soil, it is best to completely cover fertilizer granules and water well. I use 6 month I keep seedling growing year around and I apply again in 6 months providing nutrients all year long.
  13. If possible keep seedlings growing for the first year by keeping in a warm and in a sunny location. Additional Lighting may be needed.
  14. Water as needed, allow pot to almost dry out and water well making sure all the soil is evenly watered. A moisture meter is always a good tool to have.
  15. Drench with Merlin’s Magic Potion (2 oz to 1 gal of water)
  16. Continue foliar spraying with Bioblast every two weeks (1 oz to 1 gal of water) 

Depending on the weather, I planning on starting this project on Feb 1, 2018. Come back then.

1-27-2018 Updates – Seed & Seedling Projects

Optimizing Seed to Seedling Growth

My 2018 projects are designed to determine how to speed up the growth of seeds and seedlings to the point of maturity without causing them to grow excessively tall and lanky. The goal is to grow seedlings to maturity and produce blooms as soon as possible. It is important to understand all about the Plumeria seeds and seedlings growing habits and of course the limitations. Using different products, strength and methods can produce different results at different stages during the growing period and in different growing environment and conditions. I’ve experimented with many growing methods and products to determine what works best for me. A short cut would be finding someone in your area and start with what they have had success with and see if it’ll work for you. 

Plumeria are Dicots (Two-seed Leaves)

The primary root, called the radicle, is the first thing to emerge from the seed. The primary root anchors the plant to the ground and allows it to start absorbing water. After the root absorbs water, the shoot emerges from the seed. In dicots, the shoot has three main parts: the cotyledons (seed leaves), the section of the shoot below the cotyledons (hypocotyl), and the section of shoot above the cotyledons (epicotyl). The way the shoot emerges from soil or growing media follows two main patterns. In plumeria, the section of the shoot below the cotyledons elongates and forms a hook, pulling the cotyledons and the growing tip through the soil. Once it reaches the surface, it straightens and pulls the cotyledons and shoot tip of the growing seedlings into the air. This is called epigeous germination. 

After the shoot emerges, the seedling grows slowly while the storage tissue of the seed diminishes. Soon, the plant develops a branched root system or taproot. Then, true leaves that look like the leaves of the mature plumeria appear. These leaves, unlike cotyledons, photosynthesize light into energy, allowing the plant to grow and develop. When the true leaves start converting light into energy, the seedling needs a source of nutrients.

How Plumeria Seeds Form and Germinate – Before You Start Growing Plumeria From Seed

 About Plumeria Seed Selection

Optimizing Seed Germination

We know that plumeria seeds need optimal amounts of water, warm temperatures to germinate. If we don’t create the most optimal environment possible, then plants tend to germinate slowly and unevenly. Generally, space is limited, so we want plants to germinate as quickly as possible. Uneven germination can also cause problems. If you have ever had to transplant a flat of seedlings where half are ready to plant and the other half are too small with root balls that don’t slide easily out of their cells, you will understand why. Damage to roots can cause a setback in the growth of the seedling.

One common option to achieve optimal germination temperature in growing media is to use germination mats. These mats allow you to set the temperature according to seed requirements. For Plumeria I’ve found 85 degrees or above seems to be good. Plumeria will germinate in 7 days at 85°F but may take more than 15 days to germinate at 65°F.

Make sure you maintain optimal temperatures for your plumeria seeds. It is also critical to promote air circulation to mitigate fungal pathogens such as those causing damping off. I’ve been growing outside in the sun with very little dampening off problems. 

Starting Seedlings in Plugs 

Additional information about seeds and seedlings is available on Plumeria Care

Optimizing Seed to Seedling Growth

Typical seedling growth after 12 day in Plugs

Typical seedling growth in tray after 12 days

The optimal temperature for growing seedlings may be different from seeds. Remember, the optimal temperature will stimulate optimal growth. Cooler temperatures generally slow down growth, and warmer ones speed up growth to a point. 

Temperature and time required for growing Plumeria seedlings to transplanting size using FlexiPlugs. Day (F) 75-90, Night (F) 60 or above, Time 15-20 days. I plan on transplanting to pots when I see plenty of roots and three or four real leaves. The photos show seedling at 12 days, the roots are there, but they need a few more leaves.

Over the last four years, I’ve been experimenting with different media for seeds and seedlings. I’ve determined the 2″ x 3″ FlexiPlugs are the best choice for my growing conditions. They give me the ability to water 3 or more times a day and the plugs still provide adequate oxygen to the roots. I soak the FlexiPlugs in Vitazyme and Carl Pool’s Root Activator and the plug does a good job of holding the nutrients. The plugs also provide the best way I’ve found to allow transplanting with minimum root damage. The only issue I found is the slow decomposition rate of the plugs, but I haven’t noticed any negative effects on the growth of the seedlings.

As the seeds germinate and the seedlings grow, it is important to keep the plugs moist by watering less often but longer to accommodate developing root systems. I check my seedling several times a day by pressing the top of the plugs with my finger to check for moisture. If they don’t feel moist or if they look a little dry, I will water. Remember to carefully monitor and water the plants at the edges of trays. They dry out faster than those in the middle. Something else I like about the FlexiPlugs, I actually watered the Plugs every hour or so during the day for 4 days, the seedlings did fine.  But you should remember using some other methods, overwatering can increase the probability of plumeria developing damping off or stem rot.

Why Use FlexiPlugs

Fertilizing Young Plumeria Seedling – About Growing Plumeria Seedlings

Additional information about seeds and seedlings is available on Plumeria Care

Optimizing Seed to Seedling Growth

2018 Plumeria Pollination Projects

Planning for late 2018 and 2019 plumeria seeds

Work in Progress…..

Every year, I have to start thinking about the next year’s supply of seeds. Determining which plumeria I want to get seed pods from and should I manually self-pollinate or cross-pollinate. This year, Irma gave us a chance to rearrange most of our plumeria beds. So what I decided to do is put plumeria I want to pollinate or cross-pollinate in the same beds or at least close to each other. These are the plumeria I feel will help produce offspring with the traits I’m hoping for.

The first bed has the following Plumeria, I will manually cross-pollinate different combinations over the 2018 growing season.

Bed Number SE-01 contains 6 plants:

  • Camelot – Penang Peach seedling, great color, great bloomer, compact grower, sets seeds
  • George Brown – Penang Peach seedling, unusual color, great bloomer, compact grower. rarely sets seeds
  • Super Round – believed to be a Penang Peach seedling, great color, compact grower, sets seeds
  • Penang Peach – produces some great offspring. Good color, compact grower, sets seeds
  • Desert Sunrise – Chameleon. Compact grower. Sweet Scent, sets seeds
  • Bangkok Fire – Good Color, medium compact, ?sets seeds?

Bed Number SE-03

Bed Number SE-03

Bed Number FSB-01 contains 8 plants: I’m going to change some of these out.

  • Heirloom – a seedling of Summer Spice, compact grower, unusual color, sets seeds but rare.
  • Gina – semi compact grower, good color, good bloomer, sets seeds
  • Siam Ruby – a compact grower, good color, good bloomer, sets seeds
  • Thornton’s Lemon Drop – compact grower, good color, great bloomer, sets seeds
  • Dwarf Orange – Great color, compact grower, 
  • Raspberry Sundae – Great color, medium grower, good bloomer, sets seeds
  • Fireblast – Great color, medium grower, good bloomer,  sets seeds.
  • Queen Amber – Great color, medium grower, good bloomer 

Bed Number 

For more info on Plumeria Pollination and Pollinators

2018 Plumeria Pollination Projects

1-18-2018 Updates – Seed and Seedling Projects

Jan 15, 2018

2018 Seed Project preparation started today. I checked to be sure I have everything I need for my projects.

Gathering Supplies Needed:

January 17, 2018

This year will be using 2017 as a baseline. 

Merlin’s Potion from Florida Colors Nursery, not yet on the market. If 2018 experiments go well we will bring to market, but it largely depends on results from the final tests. Merlin’s Potion is an all organic product designed to boost plant health, growth and most important blooming. I developed it mainly for seedlings. I will post more about it later. 

January 18, 2018

Seed inventory and selection is next….see Plumeria Seed Selection

Unfortunately, seed selection depends on what you can get or what you have.

Here is the list, 

  • Gina,
  • Hope,
  • Heirloom,
  • Jackie,
  • Metallica,
  • Jack’s Purple, 
  • Dwarf Singapore Pink,
  • Mardi Gras,
  • Aztec Gold,
  • Waimea,
  • Bonnie Fox
  • ….so far!

January 23, 2018

Notes: The 2018 project will be divided into 6 phases:

PHASE I

Seed Selection

PHASE II

Soaking and testing seed viability.

PHASE III

Germinating Seeds

PHASE IV

Growing Seedlings to transplants size

PHASE V

Growing seedlings to the next transplant stage

PHASE VI

Growing seedlings to bloom

Depending on the weather, I’m planning on starting PHASE II, seeds soaking on Feb 1, 2018.

 

1-18-2018 Updates – Seed and Seedling Projects