Plumeria Seeds

Growing Plumeria from Seeds > Plumeria Seeds

Optimizing Seed to Seedling Growth

Posted on by texn

My 2018 projects are designed to determine how to speed up the growth of seeds and seedlings to the point of maturity without causing them to grow excessively tall and lanky. The goal is to grow seedlings to maturity and produce blooms as soon as possible. It is important to understand all about the Plumeria seeds and seedlings growing habits and of course the limitations. Using different products, strength and methods can produce different results at different stages during the growing period and in different growing environment and conditions. I’ve experimented with many growing methods and products to determine what works best for me. A short cut would be finding someone in your area and start with what they have had success with and see if it’ll work for you. 

Plumeria are Dicots (Two-seed Leaves)

The primary root, called the radicle, is the first thing to emerge from the seed. The primary root anchors the plant to the ground and allows it to start absorbing water. After the root absorbs water, the shoot emerges from the seed. In dicots, the shoot has three main parts: the cotyledons (seed leaves), the section of the shoot below the cotyledons (hypocotyl), and the section of shoot above the cotyledons (epicotyl). The way the shoot emerges from soil or growing media follows two main patterns. In plumeria, the section of the shoot below the cotyledons elongates and forms a hook, pulling the cotyledons and the growing tip through the soil. Once it reaches the surface, it straightens and pulls the cotyledons and shoot tip of the growing seedlings into the air. This is called epigeous germination. 

After the shoot emerges, the seedling grows slowly while the storage tissue of the seed diminishes. Soon, the plant develops a branched root system or taproot. Then, true leaves that look like the leaves of the mature plumeria appear. These leaves, unlike cotyledons, photosynthesize light into energy, allowing the plant to grow and develop. When the true leaves start converting light into energy, the seedling needs a source of nutrients.

How Plumeria Seeds Form and Germinate – Before You Start Growing Plumeria From Seed

 About Plumeria Seed Selection

Optimizing Seed Germination

We know that plumeria seeds need optimal amounts of water, warm temperatures to germinate. If we don’t create the most optimal environment possible, then plants tend to germinate slowly and unevenly. Generally, space is limited, so we want plants to germinate as quickly as possible. Uneven germination can also cause problems. If you have ever had to transplant a flat of seedlings where half are ready to plant and the other half are too small with root balls that don’t slide easily out of their cells, you will understand why. Damage to roots can cause a setback in the growth of the seedling.

One common option to achieve optimal germination temperature in growing media is to use germination mats. These mats allow you to set the temperature according to seed requirements. For Plumeria I’ve found 85 degrees or above seems to be good. Plumeria will germinate in 7 days at 85°F but may take more than 15 days to germinate at 65°F.

Make sure you maintain optimal temperatures for your plumeria seeds. It is also critical to promote air circulation to mitigate fungal pathogens such as those causing damping off. I’ve been growing outside in the sun with very little dampening off problems. 

Starting Seedlings in Plugs 

Additional information about seeds and seedlings is available on Plumeria Care

Optimizing Seed to Seedling Growth

Typical seedling growth after 12 day in Plugs

Typical seedling growth in tray after 12 days

The optimal temperature for growing seedlings may be different from seeds. Remember, the optimal temperature will stimulate optimal growth. Cooler temperatures generally slow down growth, and warmer ones speed up growth to a point. 

Temperature and time required for growing Plumeria seedlings to transplanting size using FlexiPlugs. Day (F) 75-90, Night (F) 60 or above, Time 15-20 days. I plan on transplanting to pots when I see plenty of roots and three or four real leaves. The photos show seedling at 12 days, the roots are there, but they need a few more leaves.

Over the last four years, I’ve been experimenting with different media for seeds and seedlings. I’ve determined the 2″ x 3″ FlexiPlugs are the best choice for my growing conditions. They give me the ability to water 3 or more times a day and the plugs still provide adequate oxygen to the roots. I soak the FlexiPlugs in Vitazyme and Carl Pool’s Root Activator and the plug does a good job of holding the nutrients. The plugs also provide the best way I’ve found to allow transplanting with minimum root damage. The only issue I found is the slow decomposition rate of the plugs, but I haven’t noticed any negative effects on the growth of the seedlings.

As the seeds germinate and the seedlings grow, it is important to keep the plugs moist by watering less often but longer to accommodate developing root systems. I check my seedling several times a day by pressing the top of the plugs with my finger to check for moisture. If they don’t feel moist or if they look a little dry, I will water. Remember to carefully monitor and water the plants at the edges of trays. They dry out faster than those in the middle. Something else I like about the FlexiPlugs, I actually watered the Plugs every hour or so during the day for 4 days, the seedlings did fine.  But you should remember using some other methods, overwatering can increase the probability of plumeria developing damping off or stem rot.

Why Use FlexiPlugs

Fertilizing Young Plumeria Seedling – About Growing Plumeria Seedlings

Additional information about seeds and seedlings is available on Plumeria Care

Optimizing Seed to Seedling Growth

Germinating Plumeria Seeds

Germinating Plumeria Seeds: An In-Depth Guide to Successful Seedling Development

Introduction

Germinating plumeria seeds is a process filled with potential and excitement. Each seed holds the genetic blueprint for a unique plumeria plant, capable of bringing beauty and fragrance. This comprehensive guide delves into the best practices for germinating plumeria seeds, ensuring successful growth from seed to seedling.

Breaking Seed Dormancy

  • Importance of Warmth and Moisture: Plumeria seeds require warm temperatures and moisture to break dormancy. The thick seed coat needs to be softened for germination to occur.
  • Methods: Soaking seeds in warm water or scarifying them can help weaken the outer coat, facilitating water absorption.

Seed Germination Medium

  • Choosing the Right Medium: A “seed starting mix” is ideal for plumeria seeds, often containing a moderate level of elemental fertilizer beneficial for sprouting seedlings.
  • Growing Trays and Containers: Select the type of tray or container that best fits your space and quantity of seeds. Individual chambers in trays can minimize transplanting needs.

Temperature for Germination

  • Optimal Range: Most plumeria seeds germinate effectively between 65-90 degrees Fahrenheit. Additional warmth in the growing medium can speed up germination.
  • Heat Pads and Lighting: Using heat pads or supplemental lighting like T5 fluorescent bulbs can provide the necessary warmth.

Preparing for Germination

  • Soaking Seeds: Soak the seeds overnight in a warm place to initiate the germination process.
  • Moistening the Medium: Ensure the medium is moist but not waterlogged before planting the seeds.
  • Spacing: Space seeds about an inch apart to minimize root damage during transplanting.

Managing Environmental Conditions

  • Light: Once seedlings emerge, they require a sufficient light source for photosynthesis. Avoid direct sunlight through windows to prevent leggy growth.
  • Humidity and Airflow: High humidity can hinder transpiration, while good airflow is essential for carbon dioxide and oxygen exchange.
  • Temperature: Maintain the optimal temperature for seedling growth and monitor for damping off, a condition caused by excessive moisture.

Seedling Development

  • Dicotyledonous Nature: Plumeria seedlings, being dicots, emerge with a primary root (radicle) followed by the shoot. The cotyledons (seed leaves) initially provide nutrients, and then true leaves appear for photosynthesis.
  • Epigeous Germination: Plumeria typically follows epigeous germination, where the shoot emerges above the soil.

Fertilization and Transplanting

  • FlexiPlugs: These have shown to be effective in providing adequate oxygen and moisture, as well as minimizing root damage during transplanting.
  • Light Fertilization: Light fertilization may be necessary as the growing medium’s nutrient charge depletes.

Conclusion

Germinating plumeria seeds is a process that requires attention to detail in terms of temperature, moisture, light, and the growing medium. With proper care and environmental management, each plumeria seedling can reach its full potential, contributing to the diverse and beautiful world of plumeria plants.

Further Resources

For more information and expert advice on plumeria seed germination and seedling care, visit Plumeria.Care. The website offers a wealth of articles and resources from plumeria experts worldwide, providing invaluable insights into the nuances of plumeria cultivation.

How Plumeria Seeds Form and Germinate

Seed Formation

Plants reproduce using eggs and sperm, just like people. However, they don’t have physical sex! Male plants release pollen, which fertilize ovaries. The fertilized ovaries develop into seeds, which can then be distributed to make new plants. As the fertilized ovaries develop, a surplus of carbohydrates and proteins are stored inside the seed. This will serve as food for the plant until it can develop leaves. Next, the fertilized plant ovaries develop the hardened coat we see as the outside of seeds to protect them against harsh environmental conditions. The seeds then can be carried away by wind or animals to create new plants.

Seed Structure

A seed consists of three main parts: an embryo, an endosperm and a seed coat. The embryo is a tiny plant that will grow into a full-sized plant once the seed germinates. A large part of the interior of a seed is taken up by the endosperm, which is made up of proteins and carbohydrates that nourish the embryo for the first few days after germination. These two structures are enclosed by the seed coat, which protects the seed until it germinates.

Seed Coat Dormancy

Hard seed coats that are impermeable to air and water induce a type of dormancy, called seed-coat dormancy, by restricting the embryo’s access to air and water. Embryos can’t grow without air and water, so the seed remains dormant until the seed coat is penetrated. This protects the embryo by preventing germination before the time is right. In nature, a seed coat can be broken down by microorganisms, weathering, fire or being partially digested by animals.

Breaking Through Seed Coats

Nature has a plan for breaking through seed coats, but when a gardener plants seeds in the garden he doesn’t want to wait for the seed to complete the seed-coat dormancy cycle naturally. Manually abrading or softening the seed coat is called scarification. You can scarify seeds by nicking them with nail clippers or a sharp knife, abrading them with sandpaper. Take care that you don’t damage the internal embryo when nicking or abrading seed coats. However the most popular method is simply soaking them in warm water for 4 hours or overnight. 

Plumeria Seed Germination

Germination is the process of seeds developing into new plants. First, environmental conditions must trigger the seed to grow. Usually, this is determined by how deep the seed is planted, water availability, and temperature. When water is plentiful, the seed fills with water in a process called imbibition. The water activates special proteins, called enzymes, that begin the process of seed growth. 

First the seed grows a root to access water underground. Next, the shoots, or growth above ground, begin to appear. The seed sends a shoot towards the surface, where it will grow leaves to harvest energy from the sun. The leaves continue to grow towards the light source in a process called photomorphogenesis. Plumeria seeds begin the germination process when the seed coat is interrupted and the internal parts of the seed begin to take up water. As the seed swells and the embryo gains access to oxygen, it begins to metabolize the available store of carbohydrates and make proteins that will become radicles, the lower part of the plant that becomes roots, and the plumule, the shoot eventually becomes the upper foliage. As the roots form they descend into the soil in search of moisture and nutrients, while the shoot pushes its way above the soil.

Influencing Factors

Several factors influence if, and how, seeds germinate. The most important factors are water availability and temperature. 

Water is crucial to seed germination. The seed must go through imbibition to activate root growth. However, too much water can be a bad thing, as most gardeners know. When a plant is still growing underground, during root formation, it cannot use the sun to make food like most grown plants do. It must rely on the stored food inside the seed, and oxygen from the environment to make energy. If the soil is too soggy, there will not be enough oxygen and the plant will not thrive.

Temperature is also an important factor. Plumeria seeds only germinate when the weather reaches spring temperatures, which is why we see so much plant growth in the spring in temperate climates.

There are three basic parts of a plumeria seed: an embryo, food storage or nutritive tissue, and the seed covering.

Embryo

A mature plumeria seed has a diploid embryo which develops from a fertilized egg or zygote. It results from the union of a sperm, from a germinated pollen, with a female egg in the embryo sac. The embryo can be distinguished from the other major parts of a seed based on component parts and function. It consists of the epicotyl, hypocotyl, radicle, and two cotyledons. It is the one which develops into a plant with an upward growing shoot and a downward growing root system.

The epicotyl is a tiny shoot from which the entire plant shoot system develops. The growing tip of the epicotyl is the plumule. The hypocotyl is the transition zone between the rudimentary root and shoot; the radicle is a small embryonic root. Cotyledons are specialized seed leaves which develop from the plumule and occur in pairs in dicot seeds. They are the most prominent part of a fully developed embryo. Monocot means one cotyledon while dicot means two cotyledons.

Storage Tissues

The stored food is present in plumeria seeds in the form of carbohydrates, fats and proteins. This stored food is found in the cotyledons of the Plumeria seed. The stored food is used to support the embryo during seed germination. In the Plumeria the cotyledons serve as the food-storage tissue. When the embryo stores its own food reserve, within the cotyledons, the seed is called exalbuminous. 

Seed Coating

When you look at a hard seed such as a bean, corn or nasturtium seed, you’re not seeing the actual seed but the seed coat. A hard seed coat protects the internal parts from drying out and prevents water and insects from accessing the tender embryo inside. It also prevents premature germination by forcing the seed to remain dormant until the time is right.

The seed coat is developed from the outer covering of the ovule, or integument. But it is not immediately apparent in the angiosperms because the seed is encased in a fruit wall or pericarp. `

There are usually two layers of the seed coat. The outer layer, known as the testa, is thicker. The inner one is more delicate, known as tegmen.

Externally, some parts of a seed are obvious. On some seed coats, the opening in the integuments of the ovule, called micropyle, is visible. The hilum is usually visible also, the scar left by the stalk which attached the seed to the placenta. The hilum is equivalent to the navel in humans to which the umbilical cord is attached. It appears dark in color when the seed becomes physiologically mature and is thus used as an indicator of seed maturity.

From the outside, seeds may be smooth, wrinkled, or hairy as in cotton, or winged. In the castor bean (Ricinus communis), there is wart-like growth at the hilum, called the caruncle. In mangosteen, the seeds are enveloped by a white fleshy aril which is edible.

Reproductive Parts of A Plumeria

Leaves, stems, roots, flowers – you know the basic anatomy of plants. But if you’re growing plumeria from seed and you should know the parts important to forming plumeria seeds, it helps to get familiar with the reproductive parts of a plumeria. Plumeria have all of the vital parts in one flower. Here are the key players and what you need to know about them.

Stamen

The male parts of a flower consist of an elongated cluster of sacs, called an anther, which emerges atop a thin filament when the flower opens. Inside the sacs are particles of pollen, which sit on the outside of the anther until wind, bees or other pollinators transfer it to the female parts. Together, the anther and filament are known as the stamen (pronounced “stay-men”). If you want your plants to produce seeds or fruit in an indoor garden, you can help by using a small thin paint brush to transfer the pollen grains from the male stamen to the female stigma. If your goal is to get unfertilized flowers with no seeds, you want to snip off the stamen as soon as they appear so none of the pollen is transferred.

Stigma

On the female side, the pollen needs to land on one of two upright stigmas, one-quarter to one-half inch long, usually pale-colored, that come up from a little green pod called the floral bract. Though it’s only about ⅛ inch across and ¼ inch long, the bract is like the womb: when pollen reaches it through the stigma, a seed develops within each bract and causes it to swell.

Calyx

The stigma and bract show up first inside a tight cluster of tiny leaf-like sepals. The cluster, called a calyx (say it “kay-licks”), may also contain glands that secrete sticky substances which help pollen grains stick to the stigma.

Pistil

To further ensure successful pollination, some species produce pistils from the calyx. These thin strands often appear as short, red-orange, “hairs.” The pistils gather pollen from the air and move it down into the plant’s ovary, where it stimulates the production of the seed.

Colas

Flower buds typically form on top of a cluster of leaves at the end of a limb, the spots that get the most light. The terminal spots are known as colas (like the soda). Experienced growers use plant-training techniques to increase the number of colas on a plant, which leads to increases in volume and size of the flower buds.

Plumeria Seed Selections

Good quality seeds are essential to grow a strong and healthy plumeria. Healthy seeds can be bought from trusted sources or growers can produce their own seed pods. In that case, seed selection can be used to improve the quality of seedlings. Even if seeds are selected carefully, they still may carry diseases. In these cases seed treatment (e.g. hot water treatment or chemical seed treatment) could be used to further improve the quality of the seeds.

Small, shriveled and broken seeds contain less nutrition for the developing seedling. By removing these inferior seeds, the grower is able to grow stronger and healthier seedlings.

While seed selection is mainly aimed at obtaining healthier seeds, it can be used also to maintain and improve the quality of your plumeria seedlings. When growing plumeria from seed, there are always differences between plants. Plumeria Rubra seeds do not produce true to their parents. It’s rare to seed a seedling look like its parent, although it can happen, the seedling will never be exactly the same as a parent. Some plants may have characteristics that are more suitable than those of other plants. During the growing season, the grower should observe these differences and mark preferred plants with a ribbon or with a stick. When those plants produce seed pods, the seeds of these plants can be reserved for growing the next group of seedlings. In this way, the grower can slowly improve the quality of their seedlings.

The selection of these plumeria seeds may be based on characteristics such as the size of the plant, color of flower, blooming traits, etc. But selection can also be done to keep seeds of plumeria that suffered less attacks by insects or diseases.

In this way, the grower will select the best seeds to be kept apart for the next season. Still, just before starting the seeds, it is recommended to select once more to remove seeds that are too small, spotted, deformed, discolored, etc.

Selection of Parent or Parents

When thinking about choosing a pod parent you should take into consideration which characteristics you would like your new seedling to have:

  • Flower: Color, Size, Keeping Quality
  • Fragrance, etc.
  • Tree: Growing Habit.
  • Leaves: Color, Size, etc.
  • Blooming: Quality, Size of Inflorescence, Number of flowers blooming at the same time, How long does it bloom, etc.

The goal is to get a spectacular plumeria seedling that has some of the characteristics you want in your new Plumeria.

To help you better understand why. If a seed pod has 40 seeds and the seeds can inherit genes from 7 generations back, you can understand why it is common for each of seeds from the same pod to have completely different genes and look nothing alike. 

If Possible:

  • Select a pod parent that is known to produce the characteristic you desire or at least a pod parent that has the characteristics you desire.
  • Obtain seeds from trusted growers.
  • Find out the history of the pod. i.e. What’s growing close to the pod, did they bloom at the same time. Was it cross pollinated (it will be very rare to find seeds for sale that has been cross pollinated), manually pollinated by human or pollinated by nature (could be self pollinated or by insects)?
  • Obtain all the seeds from a pod when possible.
  • Select seeds from a healthy tree.
  • Select seeds that are plump and look healthy.

A couple of general observations:

  • Large seeds usually produce larger seedling and small seeds usually produce smaller plumeria. 
  • Dark colored seedling generally produce darker seedling then lighter colored seeds.
  • When a seedling is dark in color, dark leaves and dark trunk, there is a better chance of getting a flower with nice color. But I have seen dark trunk and dark leaves on seedling that produced white flowers. The reverse is also true.

I feel the most important factor in pollination and seed selection is the selective of parents or at least the selection of the pod parent! Many years ago I planted about 15 seeds from Penang Peach, one seedling that bloomed in 2009 exceeded my expectations, we named it Camelot. It turned out to be a great seed producer and I’ve been planting seeds for Camelot every year. In 2013, I started experimenting with pollination and cross-pollinate. As a result, I got one seed pods that producing a total 38 seeds from Camelot. I planted them in 2014 and in 2016 some of the seedlings started to bloom and in 2017 more bloomed, so far I have 18 plus I consider to be keepers. Several stood out, one I named Merlin, because it is very similar to Camelot and Penang Peach. Now I hope to get seeds from Merlin in 2018 and cross to introduce a few more desirable characteristics.

I selected Penang Peach because of its variations in flower colors, fantastic blooming, compact grower and history of producing quality seedling. Some of the seedling from Penang Peach are: Camelot, Australia, Barry’s Orange, California Sunset, CS3, Della Nui, Dtaeng Mo, Elsie, George Brown, J105, Parameno, Pink Diamond, Pride of Nui, Purple Jack, Tropical Aurora, Wasitee and many more are believed to be seedling of Penang Peach.

Seeds from some of the Parents I’m most interested this year are Penang Peach, Camelot, Clare Corre, Super Round, J105, Jamaican Fire and others. More details on my 2018 Pollination Projects.

Before You Start Growing Plumeria Seeds

Plumeria seeds are fun to grow and can provide you with many years of pleasure. Before you begin you should consider seed choices and the limitations of your growing environment and conditions. Something to remember, Plumeria Rubra seeds do not grow true to its parents and they will take up lots of space and attention until they bloom. The average time to bloom is from two the three years, some shorter and some can take much longer.

Choosing the Right Plumeria Seeds

Before exploring how to best grow your plumeria seeds and seedlings, you need to think about starting with the right seeds. If you intend to grow for grafting rootstock or you want to grow a new cultivar, you should use the best quality seeds.

What Do Plumeria Seeds Need to Germinate?

Viable plumeria seeds are living entities. They must contain living, healthy embryonic tissue in order to germinate. All fully developed seeds contain an embryo, a store of food reserves, wrapped in a seed coat. Seeds generally “wake up” and germinate when soil moisture and temperature conditions are correct for them to grow.

Seeds and Seedlings Need the Right Environment to Germinate

Temperature, moisture, air, and light conditions must be correct for seeds to germinate. All seeds have optimal temperature ranges for germination. The minimum temperature is the lowest temperature at which seeds can germinate effectively. The maximum is the highest temperature at which seeds can germinate. Anything above or below this temperature can damage seeds or make them go into dormancy. At optimal temperatures, germination is rapid and uniform, for plumeria seeds usually 5-10 days.

Plumeria seeds need correct moisture to initiate internal processes leading up to germination. A fine-textured seedbed and good seed-to-soil contact are necessary for optimal germination. Aeration in the soil media allows for good gas exchange between the germinating embryo and the soil. Seeds respire just like any other living organism. They need oxygen and produce carbon dioxide (CO2). This carbon dioxide needs to be able to move away from the seed. If the soil or media is not well aerated due to overwatering or compaction, the CO2 will not dissipate and seeds can suffocate.

Not all seeds have the same light requirements. Most seeds germinate best under dark conditions and might even be inhibited by light. Don’t confuse seed light requirements with what seedlings need. All seedlings require sunlight. Seedlings will become leggy and fragile and will not grow to their potential if they do not have sufficient light.

Soil temperature conditions for plumeria seed germination, Minimum (F) 60, Optimum Range (F) 75-95, Optimum (F) 85, Mazimum (F) 95. Soil temperatures should be taken by inserting a soil thermometer 3-4 inches deep into the soil surface and noting temperature.

Growing Plumeria Seedling Need Space

After you find the perfect seeds from a trusted source. You are ready to think about the time and space. Not only to germinate them, but to grow them until you need them for rootstock or until they bloom. You will also need to commit to 3 – 5 years or longer of care. Seedling need the same care as your mature plumeria or maybe more. If you plant 50 seedling, look at the space 50 mature plant would take. Remember to take into consideration storing for winter, if you are in an area that freezes or gets frost.

If you thinking of naming a seedling please click here to check this list of known plumeria names and AKA’s

OK, now you are ready to embark on a journey like no other, the joy of growing Plumeria from Seed. Have fun! 

Growing Plumeria Seedlings – How Plumeria Seeds Form and Germinate

1-18-2018 Updates – Seed and Seedling Projects

Posted on by texn

Jan 15, 2018

2018 Seed Project preparation started today. I checked to be sure I have everything I need for my projects.

Gathering Supplies Needed:

January 17, 2018

This year will be using 2017 as a baseline. 

Merlin’s Potion from Florida Colors Nursery, not yet on the market. If 2018 experiments go well we will bring to market, but it largely depends on results from the final tests. Merlin’s Potion is an all organic product designed to boost plant health, growth and most important blooming. I developed it mainly for seedlings. I will post more about it later. 

January 18, 2018

Seed inventory and selection is next….see Plumeria Seed Selection

Unfortunately, seed selection depends on what you can get or what you have.

Here is the list, 

  • Gina,
  • Hope,
  • Heirloom,
  • Jackie,
  • Metallica,
  • Jack’s Purple, 
  • Dwarf Singapore Pink,
  • Mardi Gras,
  • Aztec Gold,
  • Waimea,
  • Bonnie Fox
  • ….so far!

January 23, 2018

Notes: The 2018 project will be divided into 6 phases:

PHASE I

Seed Selection

PHASE II

Soaking and testing seed viability.

PHASE III

Germinating Seeds

PHASE IV

Growing Seedlings to transplants size

PHASE V

Growing seedlings to the next transplant stage

PHASE VI

Growing seedlings to bloom

Depending on the weather, I’m planning on starting PHASE II, seeds soaking on Feb 1, 2018.

 

1-18-2018 Updates – Seed and Seedling Projects

Seedlings Started in Plugs Gallery

I first started using FlexiPlugs several years ago. I used the 1 1/2″ x 2″ the first year and found the seedlings outgrew the plugs within a week after germination, so I switched to the 2″ x 3″ FlexiPlugs. 

FlexiPlugs are created by blending the highest quality peat with other organics and a foam binder. The result is a stabilized propagation medium that promotes faster rooting for cuttings while providing the consistent moisture needed for seed germination. They are pH balanced plugs, contains micronutrients and active biologicals so it has all the elements needed to promote healthy root growth and young plant vigor.

This Gallery shows FlexiPlugs being used to plant Plumeria Seeds.